Q. I just bought a baby crested gecko yesterday and I bought him a tall tank with some coconut moss for the ground and leaves and vines for him to climb on. I'm not quite sure how much of the crested gecko diet food I should feed him but I always have some in a little dish for him when he's hungry. I have seen him eat it out of his dish and he also ate some off my finger as well. I rinsed out what was not eaten and gave him some more this morning. I'm not sure when, how long the CGD stays good when mixed or how much to feed him so I just leave some for him when he's hungry and clean it the next day to put fresh CGD in. I also have a water dish for him when he's thirsty. My room temperature stays in the mid to upper 70's, I read they do fine in room temperature. I have his tank set up on my dresser near my window, however I don't really get too much direct sunlight because my window has a fairly dar screen over it. I live in Arizona and the sun is pretty harsh here. I read that using a UVB light for crested geckos is not necessary, but a fluorescent bulb will be fine. I have some fluorescent bulbs, one is 13w but puts out 60w. I don't know if that's too bright or if its okay to use during the day. I read to keep up the humidity in their tank is to mist them every night. I am going to buy a small spray bottle to gently mist his enclosure. So far he seems to be doing okay, he's chilled out in the day but he climbed around last night and seemed fine. He's still a little skiddish so I don't really handle him much. He does let you hold him but I don't push it, I don't want to stress him out. I figure he just needs some time to get used to his new home. I'm guessing I shound clean his tank once a week by changing his moss. This is my first lizard and I want to make sure he's happy and healthy.
A. About Crested Geckos:
Crested geckos reach an adult length of around 7-9 inches (including their prehensile tails). They come in an wide array of colors and markings (morphs). They get their name from the fringed crest that runs from over their eyes down their necks and backs, though the size of the crest varies. They have specialized toe pads that allow them to effortlessly move along vertical surfaces, and their prehensile tails add to their agility. They are also good jumpers.
Housing Crested Geckos:
A minimum 20 gallon tall terrarium is sufficient for an adult, but larger is better. Crested geckos are arboreal and active, and need lots of vertical space for climbing, so a tall tank is preferred. 2-3 crested geckos can be housed in a tall 29 gallon terrarium (but males are territorial, so keep only one male per tank). A glass terrarium with a screened side for ventilation can be used, but some keepers prefer screened enclosures.
Substrate:
The substrate for crested geckos should be something that retains moisture to aid in humidity levels, such as coconut fiber bedding, moss, or peat, though paper or paper towels can be used as well. Crested geckos are somewhat prone to ingesting substrate while hunting; if this is the case for yours, use moss (either alone or over another substrate like coconut fiber) or paper towels. Paper towels are recommended for juveniles as they are more likely to accidentally swallow substrate.
Accessories:
Crested geckos need room to climb, so provide a mix of branches, driftwood, cork bark, bamboo, and vines at a variety of heights and orientations. Add a variety of silk and/or sturdy live plants (pothos, philodendron, dracena, ficus) as they will hide in the plants for cover. A small shallow water dish can be provided, with fresh water daily, though they will likely prefer to drink water droplets from leaves (mist the tank every evening, at least -- see the humidity section).
Temperature :
A daytime temperature gradient of 72-80 F (22-26.5 C) should be provided for crested geckos, with a drop at night time to 65-75 F (18-24 C). Crested geckos get stressed at higher temperatures. A low wattage red night-time bulb makes a good heat source. Do not rest a heat source right the top of the tank, as these climbing geckos could get too close and burns could result.
Lighting for Crested Geckos:
Crested geckos are nocturnal so do not need special UV lighting. However, some experts feel providing low levels of UV lighting is still beneficial to their overall health (one must make sure the enclosure does not overheat and that the geckos can hide from the light if desired). A red night time bulb allows viewing when they are most active as well as providing some heat.
Humidity:
Crested geckos need a moderate to high humidity level; aim for 60-80 percent relative humidity (get a hygrometer and monitor levels as humidity is very important). Provide humidity with regular misting with warm filtered water. Depending on your cage set up you may need to mist the cage a few times a day to keep the humidity up. Always make sure the cage is well-misted at night when the geckos are most active. Crested geckos will likely drink from water droplets left from the mist.
Feeding:
A commercial crested gecko diet is usually well-accepted and is the easiest way to ensure a well-balanced, nutritious diet. It can be supplemented with crickets and other prey insects (roaches, waxworms, silk worms; mealworms are best avoided due to their hard exoskelton) for variety and to allow the gecko to exercise its hunting instincts. Any insects fed should be slightly smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes, and should be gut loaded prior to feeding, and dusted with a calcium/D3 supplement.
If you can't get a commercial diet, you can feed crested geckos a combination of insect prey items and fruit, though it is more difficult to feed a balanced diet this way. The insect portion of the diet can be made up mainly of crickets, with the occasional addition of other insects for variety. Prey should be smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes, and should be gut loaded prior to feeding, and dusted with a calcium/D3 supplement two to three times a week and a multivitamin once a week. Feed as much prey at one time as the gecko eagerly eats. Fruit can be fed several times a week as well. Try mashed fruit or jarred baby food; they often like like bananas, peaches, nectarines, apricots, papaya, mangoes, pears, and passion fruit.
Feed in the evening; juveniles should be feed daily but adults do not need to be fed every day (3 times a week is recommended by many keepers).
Crested geckos reach an adult length of around 7-9 inches (including their prehensile tails). They come in an wide array of colors and markings (morphs). They get their name from the fringed crest that runs from over their eyes down their necks and backs, though the size of the crest varies. They have specialized toe pads that allow them to effortlessly move along vertical surfaces, and their prehensile tails add to their agility. They are also good jumpers.
Housing Crested Geckos:
A minimum 20 gallon tall terrarium is sufficient for an adult, but larger is better. Crested geckos are arboreal and active, and need lots of vertical space for climbing, so a tall tank is preferred. 2-3 crested geckos can be housed in a tall 29 gallon terrarium (but males are territorial, so keep only one male per tank). A glass terrarium with a screened side for ventilation can be used, but some keepers prefer screened enclosures.
Substrate:
The substrate for crested geckos should be something that retains moisture to aid in humidity levels, such as coconut fiber bedding, moss, or peat, though paper or paper towels can be used as well. Crested geckos are somewhat prone to ingesting substrate while hunting; if this is the case for yours, use moss (either alone or over another substrate like coconut fiber) or paper towels. Paper towels are recommended for juveniles as they are more likely to accidentally swallow substrate.
Accessories:
Crested geckos need room to climb, so provide a mix of branches, driftwood, cork bark, bamboo, and vines at a variety of heights and orientations. Add a variety of silk and/or sturdy live plants (pothos, philodendron, dracena, ficus) as they will hide in the plants for cover. A small shallow water dish can be provided, with fresh water daily, though they will likely prefer to drink water droplets from leaves (mist the tank every evening, at least -- see the humidity section).
Temperature :
A daytime temperature gradient of 72-80 F (22-26.5 C) should be provided for crested geckos, with a drop at night time to 65-75 F (18-24 C). Crested geckos get stressed at higher temperatures. A low wattage red night-time bulb makes a good heat source. Do not rest a heat source right the top of the tank, as these climbing geckos could get too close and burns could result.
Lighting for Crested Geckos:
Crested geckos are nocturnal so do not need special UV lighting. However, some experts feel providing low levels of UV lighting is still beneficial to their overall health (one must make sure the enclosure does not overheat and that the geckos can hide from the light if desired). A red night time bulb allows viewing when they are most active as well as providing some heat.
Humidity:
Crested geckos need a moderate to high humidity level; aim for 60-80 percent relative humidity (get a hygrometer and monitor levels as humidity is very important). Provide humidity with regular misting with warm filtered water. Depending on your cage set up you may need to mist the cage a few times a day to keep the humidity up. Always make sure the cage is well-misted at night when the geckos are most active. Crested geckos will likely drink from water droplets left from the mist.
Feeding:
A commercial crested gecko diet is usually well-accepted and is the easiest way to ensure a well-balanced, nutritious diet. It can be supplemented with crickets and other prey insects (roaches, waxworms, silk worms; mealworms are best avoided due to their hard exoskelton) for variety and to allow the gecko to exercise its hunting instincts. Any insects fed should be slightly smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes, and should be gut loaded prior to feeding, and dusted with a calcium/D3 supplement.
If you can't get a commercial diet, you can feed crested geckos a combination of insect prey items and fruit, though it is more difficult to feed a balanced diet this way. The insect portion of the diet can be made up mainly of crickets, with the occasional addition of other insects for variety. Prey should be smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes, and should be gut loaded prior to feeding, and dusted with a calcium/D3 supplement two to three times a week and a multivitamin once a week. Feed as much prey at one time as the gecko eagerly eats. Fruit can be fed several times a week as well. Try mashed fruit or jarred baby food; they often like like bananas, peaches, nectarines, apricots, papaya, mangoes, pears, and passion fruit.
Feed in the evening; juveniles should be feed daily but adults do not need to be fed every day (3 times a week is recommended by many keepers).
Gestational Diabetes Question...HELP!?
Q. On Friday I took the glucose screening test and my blood sugar was 149. The nurse called because it should be under 130, today I went and had the 3 hr glucose screening test and they will call me with the results tomorrow. I am freaking out so badly:(
Has anyone been in a similar situation, and what were your results from the 3 hr?
What does this mean for my baby and I?
When did you deliver/get induced with this condition?
Any insight is greatly appreciated!
Thank you so much!
~28 weeks 5 days w/#1
Has anyone been in a similar situation, and what were your results from the 3 hr?
What does this mean for my baby and I?
When did you deliver/get induced with this condition?
Any insight is greatly appreciated!
Thank you so much!
~28 weeks 5 days w/#1
A. well I had diabetes with my last 2 of 3 pregnancies. My first one, it was just monitored by diet and I didn't have to go on insulin. My doctor also never had me take the 3 hour test for either pregnancy. He did induce me 2 days early, and he was large 9 lbs 4 oz. And that was 7 years ago and I was also 21. With my last son who's now 14 months old, I had to go on insulin and eat all the time which was aweful. the shots of insulin weren't so bad, it was the eating that killed me, who wants to eat a protein bar right before they go to bed? I was due August 14th, his original plan was to induce me 2 weeks early because of my last pregnancy and how big my son was. But because I wasn't dialating or anything he waited one more week and he was born by ER c-section on august 7th 2007 and weighed only 7lbs 10 oz. the reason why we did a c-section is because he wasnt' coming down at all, and i had been in labor for about 14 hours. when he was born his cord was around his neck, most babies have this, but it was only 8 inches long, and if my doctor would've waited I could've lost him, he would've gotten stuck in the canal. if you end up having diabetes, don't worry you just have to take care of yourself, no sweets
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