Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Baby monitor for Middle East?




rooney


I live in the US and I want to buy a video monitor for family in Iran but I know the electricity is different. Can I still purchase it for them and purchase some apparatus that would convert the electricity?


Answer
after your purchase the monitor, see what the watts are so you make sure you buy a converter That is big enough for the usage the monitor requires, (you will need to get 2 converters as there are 2 parts to the monitor system)then look for the converter...you may also try to buy a monitor from amazon.com.uk they would have 220v appliances and no converter would be needed. or look at other European websites for monitors. Good luck with this

What is a good monitor?




Austin


What kind of monitor should be a good pet that wouldn't mind being touched and tamed?


Answer
Most of the medium and large monitor lizards, if you get them as babies, will become tame.
The small monitors and the arboreal species (tree dwelling) don't tame down so well.

If you have not kept monitor lizards before then consider a Savannah [Bosc's] Monitor lizard. They are relatively cheap to buy, tame-down well and are quite "tough" when older.
The main problems with them are that they are very greedy and can quickly get obese and, unless they are given excellent exposure to ultra-violet light and lot & lots of calcium they tend to get metabolic bone disease quite rapidly.

You need a considerable $$$ outlay on equipment for any type of monitor lizard:
Glass is not a suitable material to use for keeping high-temperature / desert living reptiles in !

You need to start with a 36" x 15" x 15" wooden vivarium with glass sliding doors for Monitors, something like this:
http://www.petspantry.tv/acatalog/vx48walt.jpg
and progress to a 60" x 24" x 24" as they get bigger.

Wood has better heat-retaining properties and will also stop your lizard having too much humidity in the enclosure. Glass tends to cause chest infections & skin conditions due to condensation and lack of ventilation.

Heating should be provided by a roof-mounted 100 watt or 150 watt ceramic heat emitter:
http://www.petsolutions.com/images/Products/15522044.jpg
or a reptile radiator:
http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/images/eurorep/Radiator72.jpg

connect either device to a thermostat set at 75ºF. The probe should be sited 3" off the floor at the opposite end of the vivarium to the heater [the cool end].

It is ESSENTIAL that the heater is protected by a mesh guard to prevent your lizard burning itself:
http://www.customguards.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/product_images/spotlight-guard-2-black.jpg
or
http://www.customguards.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/product_images/reptile-radiator-guard-white.jpg
Day-time Ultra-Violet light, "normal" light and basking spot heat should be provided by a 160 watt mercury vapour UV & Heat Lamp such as the Zoo Med PowerSun lamp. This should also have a guard over it and switched on from 12 to 14 hours a day.
http://styr-paa-dyr.dk/upload/Krybdyr/Exo_Terra_Solar_Glo.jpg

There are 2 booklet available for you to download and read:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/95075161/Care%20of%20Young%20Varanids%20v1-5.pdf
and
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/95075161/Raising%20Bosc%20Monitor%20Lizards.pdf

There is also an excellent reference book that you should download and save to disc for later reading:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/95075161/The%20Savanah%20Monitor%20Lizard%20X.pdf
.




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