Jessica
I have a period cycle of about 45-55 days. It ranges from like 48 days one month to 47 the next month, or 50 the next month for example. Has anyone ever had this, and how difficult to get pregnant? How long did it take you to get pregnant?
No, I dont think I have PCOS, because I have none of the symptoms and I am completely healthy, I just have long cycles.
Thanks
Answer
I myself have regular cycles and have been trying for 4 cycles with no luck yet. On the flip side, I have seen people get pregnant in the first cycle trying when they have very long and even irregular cycles. Length of cycle has little to do with the success rate. The key is knowing when you are fertile. Generally, no matter the length of your cycle, you are most fertile 10-16 days before your next period. Try using a fertility monitor or ovulation predictor kits (OPKs). The monitor might be best since your cycle is not regular. It can be pricey to use the OPKs all the time. The monitor might be more economical... and it tells you exactly when you are fertile and when to use it to your advantage!
Remember that even the most healthy couple may have to try for up to a year to get pregnant, but most are successful in 6 months. Best wishes and lots of baby dust to you!
I myself have regular cycles and have been trying for 4 cycles with no luck yet. On the flip side, I have seen people get pregnant in the first cycle trying when they have very long and even irregular cycles. Length of cycle has little to do with the success rate. The key is knowing when you are fertile. Generally, no matter the length of your cycle, you are most fertile 10-16 days before your next period. Try using a fertility monitor or ovulation predictor kits (OPKs). The monitor might be best since your cycle is not regular. It can be pricey to use the OPKs all the time. The monitor might be more economical... and it tells you exactly when you are fertile and when to use it to your advantage!
Remember that even the most healthy couple may have to try for up to a year to get pregnant, but most are successful in 6 months. Best wishes and lots of baby dust to you!
ball python cage setup?
Michael
so i want to get a ball python but i dont have any cage ideas. i want to get a baby and put it in a sterlite tub. i need help with what size up, heat tape, and all the stuff i need (hydropmeter,thermentor etc...)
Answer
Ball pythons are relitvely simple in their setup and care.
First of all the cage. A baby ball python will be fine in a ten gallon aquarium. As it grows you can bump up the size. An adult BP can easily and happily live out it's live in a thirty gallon aquarium.
Next you'll need a substrate. Aspen, coconut fiber, newspaper. Anything really makes a good substrate to keep you snake on. With one important exception: NEVER KEEP YOUR SNAKE ON CEDAR OF ANY KIND. Cedar is toxic to your snake. I personally recommend newspaper as it is cheap and easy to clean.
A good heat source is vital to your snakes health. Bps need a temperature gradient (as do all snakes incidentally). You'll need to maintain a hotside of about 88-90 degrees, and a cold side of about 78-84. This allows the snake to thermoregulate (Choose which body temp is most appropriate). You can use heat lamps to achieve this temp gradient. But an Under the tank heater (UTH) is much more economical in the long run, and doesn't mess with your humidity like a heat lamp would. Flexwatt is the most widely used because it's very cheap and very easy to wire up. Just make SURE you wire it to a thermostat so you can control the temperatures. I'd recommend a ranco prewired set.
Next you'll need hides, water sources and a way to monitor it all. Ball pythons are nocturnal by nature, so they appreciate good hiding places during the day. Make sure you have one hide on the hot side and one hide on the cold side so the snake never has to choose security over temperature. Next you'll need to maintain adequate humidity. Ball pythons need humidity levels in the low to mid sixties, remember they ARE from Africa. Put a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in if it desires on the cold side of the cage. To monitor it all you need a hydrometer/thermometer. Digital kinds are the best. Walmart sells Accurites, which are good. Put the unit itself on the cold side and the probe on the hot side to accurately tell temps.
Once you've got space, hides, temps and humidity downpat, then you can worry about feeding. I've heard a lot of people say BPs are picky eaters. As long as you meet their requirements, nothing could be further from the truth. Most BPs will readily take frozen/thawed (F/T) mice or rats their whole lives. Only in rare circumstances should you have to feed live. As a young Bp, you should offer food every 5-7 days. If your snake eats, leave it alone for at least 24 hours before you handle. If you handle too soon, it could lead to regurgitiation. As your snake ages, you can switch to every 10-14 day feeding schedule.
On shedding/problems:
Periodically, your snakes colors will dull, his/her eyes will go misty and their belly will turn pinkish. This is a sign your snake is going into shed. You should immeadietly bump humidity about 10% above what you normally keep it. Leave it that way until your snake actually sheds. Keep in mind that the shed conditions will clear up a day or two before the snake actually sheds, so keep the humidity elevated until you actually see the old skin in the cage with it.
Occasionally, or when you get the snake you may notice little bugs crawling around on it, or little black pepper like dots in it's water bowl. These are mites. They are tough to get rid of, but it can be done. Go to www.pro-products.com and get provent a mite. Follow the directions to become mite free
Good luck and congratulations on your new pet. Bps are wonderful creatures.
Ball pythons are relitvely simple in their setup and care.
First of all the cage. A baby ball python will be fine in a ten gallon aquarium. As it grows you can bump up the size. An adult BP can easily and happily live out it's live in a thirty gallon aquarium.
Next you'll need a substrate. Aspen, coconut fiber, newspaper. Anything really makes a good substrate to keep you snake on. With one important exception: NEVER KEEP YOUR SNAKE ON CEDAR OF ANY KIND. Cedar is toxic to your snake. I personally recommend newspaper as it is cheap and easy to clean.
A good heat source is vital to your snakes health. Bps need a temperature gradient (as do all snakes incidentally). You'll need to maintain a hotside of about 88-90 degrees, and a cold side of about 78-84. This allows the snake to thermoregulate (Choose which body temp is most appropriate). You can use heat lamps to achieve this temp gradient. But an Under the tank heater (UTH) is much more economical in the long run, and doesn't mess with your humidity like a heat lamp would. Flexwatt is the most widely used because it's very cheap and very easy to wire up. Just make SURE you wire it to a thermostat so you can control the temperatures. I'd recommend a ranco prewired set.
Next you'll need hides, water sources and a way to monitor it all. Ball pythons are nocturnal by nature, so they appreciate good hiding places during the day. Make sure you have one hide on the hot side and one hide on the cold side so the snake never has to choose security over temperature. Next you'll need to maintain adequate humidity. Ball pythons need humidity levels in the low to mid sixties, remember they ARE from Africa. Put a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in if it desires on the cold side of the cage. To monitor it all you need a hydrometer/thermometer. Digital kinds are the best. Walmart sells Accurites, which are good. Put the unit itself on the cold side and the probe on the hot side to accurately tell temps.
Once you've got space, hides, temps and humidity downpat, then you can worry about feeding. I've heard a lot of people say BPs are picky eaters. As long as you meet their requirements, nothing could be further from the truth. Most BPs will readily take frozen/thawed (F/T) mice or rats their whole lives. Only in rare circumstances should you have to feed live. As a young Bp, you should offer food every 5-7 days. If your snake eats, leave it alone for at least 24 hours before you handle. If you handle too soon, it could lead to regurgitiation. As your snake ages, you can switch to every 10-14 day feeding schedule.
On shedding/problems:
Periodically, your snakes colors will dull, his/her eyes will go misty and their belly will turn pinkish. This is a sign your snake is going into shed. You should immeadietly bump humidity about 10% above what you normally keep it. Leave it that way until your snake actually sheds. Keep in mind that the shed conditions will clear up a day or two before the snake actually sheds, so keep the humidity elevated until you actually see the old skin in the cage with it.
Occasionally, or when you get the snake you may notice little bugs crawling around on it, or little black pepper like dots in it's water bowl. These are mites. They are tough to get rid of, but it can be done. Go to www.pro-products.com and get provent a mite. Follow the directions to become mite free
Good luck and congratulations on your new pet. Bps are wonderful creatures.
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Title Post: Has anyone conceived with a LONG cycle?
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Rating: 96% based on 987 ratings. 4,3 user reviews.
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Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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