Q. Silly question but I was just wondering what you thought. Cordless phones are annoying. They have horrible quality, receive interference from just about any other device sharing the same network. Plus they need power to operate, so they are useless in a power outage. And there also in some ways a security breach. You can easily listen into a conversation with a baby monitor. And to top it off they lack most features that corded phones offer. So what's your opinion?
A. You clearly haven't used a modern cordless phone. A good digital cordless phone is unlikely to see any interference with much of anything, the link quality is indistinguishable from wired, and no, you cannot hear the call with a baby monitor. That's not to say that those things have not historically been problems, just that they're problems largely solved in pretty much all modern gear.
One good idea is to get a cordless phone system that does not collide with a home network or your microwave. Look for a 5.8GHz digital phone or a DECT (runs around 1.9MHz), rather than a 2.4GHz phone, which uses the same ISM radio band as your microwave, 802.11 network, X-Box 360, Sony PS3, Bluetooth phone, etc.
With that all said, yeah, I have a few wired phones as well as the cordless. Of course, this may also depend on how you get your phone service... if you're using POTS (plain old telephone system) phones, a corded phone is useful in a blackout. If you're on VoIP, FiOS, DSL, or Cable, there's a strong likelihood your network gear in the house goes down anyway, so the cordless phone is unlikely to be an issue.
I'm very happy with my digital 5.8GHz phones... one wired connection for a base station that supports up to eight handsets (I have four), phone to phone intercom system built-in, great range, enough to cover my house (4200ft^2) and the immediate areas outside (if I want to go for a walk in the woods AND talk on the phone, I'll use my cell).
One good idea is to get a cordless phone system that does not collide with a home network or your microwave. Look for a 5.8GHz digital phone or a DECT (runs around 1.9MHz), rather than a 2.4GHz phone, which uses the same ISM radio band as your microwave, 802.11 network, X-Box 360, Sony PS3, Bluetooth phone, etc.
With that all said, yeah, I have a few wired phones as well as the cordless. Of course, this may also depend on how you get your phone service... if you're using POTS (plain old telephone system) phones, a corded phone is useful in a blackout. If you're on VoIP, FiOS, DSL, or Cable, there's a strong likelihood your network gear in the house goes down anyway, so the cordless phone is unlikely to be an issue.
I'm very happy with my digital 5.8GHz phones... one wired connection for a base station that supports up to eight handsets (I have four), phone to phone intercom system built-in, great range, enough to cover my house (4200ft^2) and the immediate areas outside (if I want to go for a walk in the woods AND talk on the phone, I'll use my cell).
What are some things I need and some things I need to know about how to care a Savannah Monitor?
Q. Please list everything I need to care for a Savannah Monitor . I have been keeping reptiles for several years but this is going to be my first time keeping a monitor lizard. It is going to be a Savannah Monitor. I haven't got one yet but I am going to get one and I need a care sheet. Please help!!!
A. BASIC INFO:
- water proof solid topped 8 x 4 x 4 enclosure, 4 x 2 x 2 for babies and juvies. The enclosure should be solid wood to hold up heat, humidity and daily use stress. A plexi glass lid can be used. You can also use a feed trough (for cattle) as a base for your enclosure.
- two feet deep of a sand/soil mixture that is slightly damp so your sav can dig. They love to burrow and shouldn't be forbidden to do so.
-130F+ basking SPOT in the cage. Air temps should be 85F hot/ 70F cool.
- Provide multiple hiding spots, stacks of plywood work wonders for this, google "Retes Stacks"
Diet:
Rodents and bugs. That's it. No dog food, meat cuts, canned food, ground meats, innards, fish, monitor diets. You won't need any of that. A healthy monitor can and should be raised on mice, rats,roaches and crickets. Sure, you can use worms, but roaches are just so much more convenient.
Read VARANID'S (now J.H.) answers for LOTS of useful monitor care tips and information, he's Y! resident monitor expert, and a damn good one at that.
http://answers.yahoo.com/my/profile;_ylt=Arwi305xCKOa7r4S9UkqYw_M7BR.;_ylv=3?show=2CbfO4jWaa
http://savannahmonitor.org/
- water proof solid topped 8 x 4 x 4 enclosure, 4 x 2 x 2 for babies and juvies. The enclosure should be solid wood to hold up heat, humidity and daily use stress. A plexi glass lid can be used. You can also use a feed trough (for cattle) as a base for your enclosure.
- two feet deep of a sand/soil mixture that is slightly damp so your sav can dig. They love to burrow and shouldn't be forbidden to do so.
-130F+ basking SPOT in the cage. Air temps should be 85F hot/ 70F cool.
- Provide multiple hiding spots, stacks of plywood work wonders for this, google "Retes Stacks"
Diet:
Rodents and bugs. That's it. No dog food, meat cuts, canned food, ground meats, innards, fish, monitor diets. You won't need any of that. A healthy monitor can and should be raised on mice, rats,roaches and crickets. Sure, you can use worms, but roaches are just so much more convenient.
Read VARANID'S (now J.H.) answers for LOTS of useful monitor care tips and information, he's Y! resident monitor expert, and a damn good one at that.
http://answers.yahoo.com/my/profile;_ylt=Arwi305xCKOa7r4S9UkqYw_M7BR.;_ylv=3?show=2CbfO4jWaa
http://savannahmonitor.org/
Based on your actual experience, what is the best baby video monitor for sale?
Q. I've heard so many different, mixed reviews. I'm mostly concerned about them not working with our wireless network (which I don't know how to tweak). If anyone has a good one that works well with a wireless network that doesn't cost TONS of money, please pass on the info. Thanks!
A. What do you mean working with wireless network? Most baby monitors are wireless, but they don�t connect to a modem. Do you just mean without a cord or actually hooked up to a computer? I have been using Summer Infant Hand Held Video baby monitor for 6 month now and can�t complain. It sees at night and has color. The monitor is hand held so you can carry it with you where you want to. At first the battery would last 3-4 days now it lasts 2 days, then you have to recharge, but it can be on when charging. I got mine on eBay at half the cost. If you still don�t have your baby and don�t need one ASAP. Start looking for deals. I got ours 2 month before the baby was born but it took me 4 weeks to get the deal I wanted.
I�m also using a wireless connection on my laptop and there is no interference with the monitor, it�s working perfectly fine. Also it does NOT pick up cell phones, radios or other babies.
I�m also using a wireless connection on my laptop and there is no interference with the monitor, it�s working perfectly fine. Also it does NOT pick up cell phones, radios or other babies.
How do i Set the temperature of my ball python's tank?
Q. Also, What temp is good for a baby ball python?
How can i tell what the temp of the tank is?
What temp should the basking area be?
What tool is good for measuring temp inside tank?
How can i tell what the temp of the tank is?
What temp should the basking area be?
What tool is good for measuring temp inside tank?
A. You have to decide to use a lamp or UTH. It is generally considered that UTH is better for a ball for several reasons, one being that lamps tend to dry out the air and you need to keep a high humidity for balls.
So, get your UTH that is rated for your size tank. It should cover about 1/3 of the bottom of the tank. You also MUST have a thermostat or rheostat to control the temps or it will get way too hot. Thermostats are more reliable, but with careful monitoring, a rheostat like this will work:
http://www.petmountain.com/product/reptile-heaters/512443/zoo-med-repti-temp-rheostat.html
Then you need a digital thermometer with a probe. Wal Mart carries AcuRite Indoor/Outdoor digital therm, and it's perfect because it measures humidity, too, and it's only $12.
You can wrap the UTH in aluminum tape so that it can be reused instead of sticking it directly on the tank. Use something under each corner of the tank to raise it up 1/2 inch or so to create airflow.
Place the UTH under the tank on the OUTSIDE. Place the probe for the thermoSTAT or rheostat between the UTH and the tank.
Now, take your thermoMETER and place the probe directly on the glass over the UTH on the INSIDE of the tank. Secure it with alum tape or hot glue. This will be covered up by your substrate. Place the base unit of the thermometer on the cool side. I like to place a couple squares of adhesive velcro and stick it to the side of the tank so it doesn't get knocked over as easily. Place as much of the excess wire as possible on the outside of the tank. You can caulk or hot glue the part of the wire that's inside the tank up the corners. Be aware that touching the wire with a hot glue gun tip will instantly melt it!
Okay, now set the rheostat so that your hot side is around 90, never more than 95, and your cool side is around 80. You'll need to give it a couple hours to settle in before you know what the temps are, so it's a good idea to do this at least a day before you bring your new ball home.
If you must use a lamp, pretty much the same procedure for the placement of the thermometer, only it needs to be on top of the substrate instead of under. Easier said than done because your snake will move it around. You can attach the WIRE to the bottom and leave just enough of the probe unattached to poke it up through the substrate. You can adjust the heat by move the lamp further away or using a lower or higher wattage bulb. If your humidity drops, there are steps you can take to raise it, like using a bigger water bowl, or covering most of the top screen with plastic or a damp towel.
You will want 2 identical hides, one for the cool side and the hot side. They need to be identical so the snake doesn't pick a favorite and hang out there all the time without thermo-regulating.
Please continue your research at http://www.ball-pythons.net to learn everything you need to know about taking care of your ball!
Best of luck!
So, get your UTH that is rated for your size tank. It should cover about 1/3 of the bottom of the tank. You also MUST have a thermostat or rheostat to control the temps or it will get way too hot. Thermostats are more reliable, but with careful monitoring, a rheostat like this will work:
http://www.petmountain.com/product/reptile-heaters/512443/zoo-med-repti-temp-rheostat.html
Then you need a digital thermometer with a probe. Wal Mart carries AcuRite Indoor/Outdoor digital therm, and it's perfect because it measures humidity, too, and it's only $12.
You can wrap the UTH in aluminum tape so that it can be reused instead of sticking it directly on the tank. Use something under each corner of the tank to raise it up 1/2 inch or so to create airflow.
Place the UTH under the tank on the OUTSIDE. Place the probe for the thermoSTAT or rheostat between the UTH and the tank.
Now, take your thermoMETER and place the probe directly on the glass over the UTH on the INSIDE of the tank. Secure it with alum tape or hot glue. This will be covered up by your substrate. Place the base unit of the thermometer on the cool side. I like to place a couple squares of adhesive velcro and stick it to the side of the tank so it doesn't get knocked over as easily. Place as much of the excess wire as possible on the outside of the tank. You can caulk or hot glue the part of the wire that's inside the tank up the corners. Be aware that touching the wire with a hot glue gun tip will instantly melt it!
Okay, now set the rheostat so that your hot side is around 90, never more than 95, and your cool side is around 80. You'll need to give it a couple hours to settle in before you know what the temps are, so it's a good idea to do this at least a day before you bring your new ball home.
If you must use a lamp, pretty much the same procedure for the placement of the thermometer, only it needs to be on top of the substrate instead of under. Easier said than done because your snake will move it around. You can attach the WIRE to the bottom and leave just enough of the probe unattached to poke it up through the substrate. You can adjust the heat by move the lamp further away or using a lower or higher wattage bulb. If your humidity drops, there are steps you can take to raise it, like using a bigger water bowl, or covering most of the top screen with plastic or a damp towel.
You will want 2 identical hides, one for the cool side and the hot side. They need to be identical so the snake doesn't pick a favorite and hang out there all the time without thermo-regulating.
Please continue your research at http://www.ball-pythons.net to learn everything you need to know about taking care of your ball!
Best of luck!
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Title Post: Do you think corded phones are better than cordless phones?
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Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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