Q. I want my hedgie to have to works! I'm getting a male hedghog in several weeks, and I was just wanting to know if anyone knows what all it will need. Please list from as small as a food bowl to as big as a cage. I want it to feel loved and entertained! Also what will it eat?
A. * A cage, a minimum of 4sq ft.
* Something to line the bottom of the cage, like aspen shavings--or another popular choice is fleece.
*Plastic walls, or a cover if the walls are wire, to prevent escape.
* A wheel, large enough to accommodate. Plastic not wire as the small feet could get caught and torn.
* A place in the cage to hide from light and noise, like a igloo or a hedgiebag.
* Heavy ceramic food and water bowls, to prevent tipping. I advise against using droppers, it's all too easy for a hedgie chip a tooth, which unlike a rodents, will never grow back.
* Entertainment.. Like a toilet paper roll with a slit down the middle to keep from getting stuck. Mine likes to push around ping pong balls, and sometimes small toy cars(but I would only use them under direct supervision, they can be hazardous)
* Something to burrow in; if you're using fleece you could use cut up bits of fleece. Otherwise shavings do the trick.
* Something to regulate the heat, that does not put off light. I use a ceramic heat emitter and a reptile lamp. The temperature should stay between 73-78 degrees fahrenheit, and any dramatic change and you risk hibernation.
* Something to monitor the temperature. I recommend 2+ reliable thermometers that give a daily minimum and maximum temperature, so you can have an idea of how drastic the daily changes are.
* You will need to provide at least 12 hours of natural or artificial light, or you risk hibernation.
If your hedgehog tries to attempt hibernation, he will likely die within a couple days. You want to do whatever you can to prevent that.
If you want a friendly hedgehog, 30-60 minutes a day of interaction are necessary.
There are certain types of hedgehog specific food out there, but cat food usually gives you more options and more high quality ingredients. You will want to mix a few different brands together. Look for foods that are high in protein and low in fat. I feed a mix of taste of the wild for cats, blue buffalo, and max cat.
Variety is also a important part of a healthy hedgie diet, so I'm a big advocate for snacks. Some popular favorites are
-insects; grasshoppers, mealworms, crickets..live are more nutritious than frozen, but if you have a weak stomach frozen are fine too.
-any kind of cooked, unseasoned meat
-scrambled eggs
-bananas
-moist cat food
-meat-based baby foods
-cooked carrots
That's about all I can think of. Good luck :)
Edit* I almost forgot, a crucial requirement... a regular and emergency vet that are trained to work with exotic pets, like hedgehogs. Many vets refuse to work on such a small and delicate animal, for good reason, so make sure you have a specialist available.
* Something to line the bottom of the cage, like aspen shavings--or another popular choice is fleece.
*Plastic walls, or a cover if the walls are wire, to prevent escape.
* A wheel, large enough to accommodate. Plastic not wire as the small feet could get caught and torn.
* A place in the cage to hide from light and noise, like a igloo or a hedgiebag.
* Heavy ceramic food and water bowls, to prevent tipping. I advise against using droppers, it's all too easy for a hedgie chip a tooth, which unlike a rodents, will never grow back.
* Entertainment.. Like a toilet paper roll with a slit down the middle to keep from getting stuck. Mine likes to push around ping pong balls, and sometimes small toy cars(but I would only use them under direct supervision, they can be hazardous)
* Something to burrow in; if you're using fleece you could use cut up bits of fleece. Otherwise shavings do the trick.
* Something to regulate the heat, that does not put off light. I use a ceramic heat emitter and a reptile lamp. The temperature should stay between 73-78 degrees fahrenheit, and any dramatic change and you risk hibernation.
* Something to monitor the temperature. I recommend 2+ reliable thermometers that give a daily minimum and maximum temperature, so you can have an idea of how drastic the daily changes are.
* You will need to provide at least 12 hours of natural or artificial light, or you risk hibernation.
If your hedgehog tries to attempt hibernation, he will likely die within a couple days. You want to do whatever you can to prevent that.
If you want a friendly hedgehog, 30-60 minutes a day of interaction are necessary.
There are certain types of hedgehog specific food out there, but cat food usually gives you more options and more high quality ingredients. You will want to mix a few different brands together. Look for foods that are high in protein and low in fat. I feed a mix of taste of the wild for cats, blue buffalo, and max cat.
Variety is also a important part of a healthy hedgie diet, so I'm a big advocate for snacks. Some popular favorites are
-insects; grasshoppers, mealworms, crickets..live are more nutritious than frozen, but if you have a weak stomach frozen are fine too.
-any kind of cooked, unseasoned meat
-scrambled eggs
-bananas
-moist cat food
-meat-based baby foods
-cooked carrots
That's about all I can think of. Good luck :)
Edit* I almost forgot, a crucial requirement... a regular and emergency vet that are trained to work with exotic pets, like hedgehogs. Many vets refuse to work on such a small and delicate animal, for good reason, so make sure you have a specialist available.
what dose it mean to have a tame nile monitor?
Q. i have a baby ornate nile monitor he dosent bite when i grave him but he dose try to run away from my hands .once he figures our that he cannot escape my hands he calms down
but ones i put him on the floor he try to run
oh yea also when i put my hand in the tank he freeks out and runs to his hide spot
so dose this sound like a tame nile monitor if not why?
are their any tips for taming them?
but ones i put him on the floor he try to run
oh yea also when i put my hand in the tank he freeks out and runs to his hide spot
so dose this sound like a tame nile monitor if not why?
are their any tips for taming them?
A. As I and several others have told you repeatedly - there is no such thing as a tame Nile Monitor.
You're trying to make him tame by putting him through something that is obvious uncomfortable and stressful for him - this is going to lead to a large, aggressive lizard that absolutely HATES everything about you.
You need to stop trying to make him tame and settle for how he is, compared to others he is pretty good but that will change quickly if you persist.
A human-Nile Monitor relationship is one where the human feeds, cleans up after, and gives up an entire room to house the lizard, who in return at best tolerates the human and (usually) does not attack them.
Your persistence in trying to 'tame' this lizard, and your continued ignoring of our answers tell me you are not nearly responsible or mature enough to handle a lizard of this magnitude. I think you should try and find a new home for this little one before it gets any larger and sends you to the hospital.
You're trying to make him tame by putting him through something that is obvious uncomfortable and stressful for him - this is going to lead to a large, aggressive lizard that absolutely HATES everything about you.
You need to stop trying to make him tame and settle for how he is, compared to others he is pretty good but that will change quickly if you persist.
A human-Nile Monitor relationship is one where the human feeds, cleans up after, and gives up an entire room to house the lizard, who in return at best tolerates the human and (usually) does not attack them.
Your persistence in trying to 'tame' this lizard, and your continued ignoring of our answers tell me you are not nearly responsible or mature enough to handle a lizard of this magnitude. I think you should try and find a new home for this little one before it gets any larger and sends you to the hospital.
What to do during a dog's seizure and what is the cost of medication?
Q. My 3 year old lab had two seizures in March of this year (really weak, not diagnosed). Yesterday my wife and I noticed he was having one. I rubbed him down and talked to him during the seizure until it went away (3-5 minutes). What else can I do? I know I have to take him to the vet and most likely get him medicated. How much money are we looking at?
A. my dog had seizures and all i could do for her is sit and pat her and let her know i was there.
Its very sad to watch it happen to them
I the end the seizures did kill her
I just found this info if its any good
During the Seizure:
- Some dogs are light or sound sensitive during seizure episodes. Try dimming the lights and keeping phones at a distance from the dog.
- Keep old towels or baby diapers handy to catch urine if your dog urinates during seizures.
- Some human epileptics say they have an easier time if the seizure is allowed to run its course. Calling the dog's name to bring them out of the seizure may not be the best thing for your dog. Try it each way and see which is more comfortable for your particular dog's seizure.
- A fan blowing on the dog, or rubbing the feet and belly with cool water may help cool the dog down. Of course, in any case should the dog seem to be overheating due to repeated seizures or not coming out of a seizure -IMMEDIATELY bring the dog to/or contact a vet since overheating can be very dangerous.
- Many dogs are confused and even blind right after a seizure. Keep the dog in a safe area where they cannot fall down stairs or hurt themselves.
- Keep a careful journal of the seizures. As soon as possible write down the exact time the dog started to seizure and the time the seizure ended. A stop watch or watch with a second hand can be helpful. After the seizure is over and you have time - write down all circumstances surrounding the seizure, such as unusual food eaten, activities that happened during the previous day, medications or vaccinations recently given. A detailed journal can be helpful when bringing your dog to a new vet or neurologist.
- Be prepared to transport a dog that cannot stand up and walk, or is even in the middle of a seizure. Hard plastic children's sleds can be used to carry or drag the dog to the car. A heavy blanket folded can also act as a stretcher. If you are alone with a very heavy/large seizing dog, call the vets office for instructions. Depending on where you live you may want to try calling the police for help in getting the dog into the car if no one else is available.
Safety:
- Seizure proofing your home is important since most of us cannot be there to watch our dogs at all times. Seizures may occur when the dog is home alone. Many people crate their dogs while they are not there. An airline type crate (Vari-Kennel or Furrari) minimizes the chances of the feet getting caught up in the wires.
- While crating, or even when leaving the dog home alone, make sure the dog is not wearing a collar (especially with tags) that could get caught while the dog is thrashing. Choking can result.
- Some people make a special room for the epileptic dog, clearing out any objects/furniture that may injure the dog during a seizure. Crating or making a 'doggy room' may be the best idea should you have a 'catapulting dog', that is one that throws itself across the room during seizures.
- Never leave an epileptic dog alone near any water deep enough to drown in. If you need to, investigate getting a doggy lifevest for your dog.
- If you are concerned about your dog seizing while swimming, doggie life vests are available.
- Protection or separation may need to be considered in multiple dog households. A seizing dog can trigger the 'pack' instinct in which an injured animal on the ground is attacked. Monitor your dogs until you know their reactions to the seizing dog.
- Baby gates can be invaluable to block off stairways or confine the dog to a certain room.
- Be careful of leaving windows open should you have a dog that spends time near one. Screen windows can easily fall out of the framing as well as your dog.
- Prop a large piece of styrofoam insulation against a sliding glass door if you are afraid of your dog hitting against it.
- Buy a new or used baby alert monitor to 'hear' your dog if he sleeps in a different part of the home. Just put the receiver part in your bedroom -this may help you sleep better if you are constantly trying to 'listen' to hear if the dog is all right.
- If you really want to know what happens when you are not home, buy a voice activated tape recorder. It only records when significantly loud noise is heard. This will not only let you know if your dog has seized, but if he has been barking all day. Some also videotape their dog during the time they are gone. They then fast forward thru the tape to see if anything unusual has happened during the day.
- Keep phone numbers to your vet and all emergency vet hospitals near all phones. 2:00 a.m. in the morning is not he time to decide if your dog is in status and then figure out what to do. Drive by the emergency vet so you know exactly where it is. When traveling, get emergency numbers in advance or immediately find the hospital nearest you when you arrive. Keep the number handy at all times.
- An ID tag on a lost epileptic dog is very important. It's scary enough to think of a lost dog, but a lost dog without medications is even worse. Medical alert tags are available at most pharmacies, pet supply catalogs or from your vet. It can even be engraved and worn with your dog's regular tags.
- Train all your dogs for basic obedience. You may need it someday if you are walking multiple dogs and your epileptic seizures. The situation would be much easier if the other dogs will obey a sit or down stay.
Its very sad to watch it happen to them
I the end the seizures did kill her
I just found this info if its any good
During the Seizure:
- Some dogs are light or sound sensitive during seizure episodes. Try dimming the lights and keeping phones at a distance from the dog.
- Keep old towels or baby diapers handy to catch urine if your dog urinates during seizures.
- Some human epileptics say they have an easier time if the seizure is allowed to run its course. Calling the dog's name to bring them out of the seizure may not be the best thing for your dog. Try it each way and see which is more comfortable for your particular dog's seizure.
- A fan blowing on the dog, or rubbing the feet and belly with cool water may help cool the dog down. Of course, in any case should the dog seem to be overheating due to repeated seizures or not coming out of a seizure -IMMEDIATELY bring the dog to/or contact a vet since overheating can be very dangerous.
- Many dogs are confused and even blind right after a seizure. Keep the dog in a safe area where they cannot fall down stairs or hurt themselves.
- Keep a careful journal of the seizures. As soon as possible write down the exact time the dog started to seizure and the time the seizure ended. A stop watch or watch with a second hand can be helpful. After the seizure is over and you have time - write down all circumstances surrounding the seizure, such as unusual food eaten, activities that happened during the previous day, medications or vaccinations recently given. A detailed journal can be helpful when bringing your dog to a new vet or neurologist.
- Be prepared to transport a dog that cannot stand up and walk, or is even in the middle of a seizure. Hard plastic children's sleds can be used to carry or drag the dog to the car. A heavy blanket folded can also act as a stretcher. If you are alone with a very heavy/large seizing dog, call the vets office for instructions. Depending on where you live you may want to try calling the police for help in getting the dog into the car if no one else is available.
Safety:
- Seizure proofing your home is important since most of us cannot be there to watch our dogs at all times. Seizures may occur when the dog is home alone. Many people crate their dogs while they are not there. An airline type crate (Vari-Kennel or Furrari) minimizes the chances of the feet getting caught up in the wires.
- While crating, or even when leaving the dog home alone, make sure the dog is not wearing a collar (especially with tags) that could get caught while the dog is thrashing. Choking can result.
- Some people make a special room for the epileptic dog, clearing out any objects/furniture that may injure the dog during a seizure. Crating or making a 'doggy room' may be the best idea should you have a 'catapulting dog', that is one that throws itself across the room during seizures.
- Never leave an epileptic dog alone near any water deep enough to drown in. If you need to, investigate getting a doggy lifevest for your dog.
- If you are concerned about your dog seizing while swimming, doggie life vests are available.
- Protection or separation may need to be considered in multiple dog households. A seizing dog can trigger the 'pack' instinct in which an injured animal on the ground is attacked. Monitor your dogs until you know their reactions to the seizing dog.
- Baby gates can be invaluable to block off stairways or confine the dog to a certain room.
- Be careful of leaving windows open should you have a dog that spends time near one. Screen windows can easily fall out of the framing as well as your dog.
- Prop a large piece of styrofoam insulation against a sliding glass door if you are afraid of your dog hitting against it.
- Buy a new or used baby alert monitor to 'hear' your dog if he sleeps in a different part of the home. Just put the receiver part in your bedroom -this may help you sleep better if you are constantly trying to 'listen' to hear if the dog is all right.
- If you really want to know what happens when you are not home, buy a voice activated tape recorder. It only records when significantly loud noise is heard. This will not only let you know if your dog has seized, but if he has been barking all day. Some also videotape their dog during the time they are gone. They then fast forward thru the tape to see if anything unusual has happened during the day.
- Keep phone numbers to your vet and all emergency vet hospitals near all phones. 2:00 a.m. in the morning is not he time to decide if your dog is in status and then figure out what to do. Drive by the emergency vet so you know exactly where it is. When traveling, get emergency numbers in advance or immediately find the hospital nearest you when you arrive. Keep the number handy at all times.
- An ID tag on a lost epileptic dog is very important. It's scary enough to think of a lost dog, but a lost dog without medications is even worse. Medical alert tags are available at most pharmacies, pet supply catalogs or from your vet. It can even be engraved and worn with your dog's regular tags.
- Train all your dogs for basic obedience. You may need it someday if you are walking multiple dogs and your epileptic seizures. The situation would be much easier if the other dogs will obey a sit or down stay.
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Title Post: What should I have for my hedgehog when I bring it home?
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Rating: 96% based on 987 ratings. 4,3 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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