Michael
so i want to get a ball python but i dont have any cage ideas. i want to get a baby and put it in a sterlite tub. i need help with what size up, heat tape, and all the stuff i need (hydropmeter,thermentor etc...)
Answer
Ball pythons are relitvely simple in their setup and care.
First of all the cage. A baby ball python will be fine in a ten gallon aquarium. As it grows you can bump up the size. An adult BP can easily and happily live out it's live in a thirty gallon aquarium.
Next you'll need a substrate. Aspen, coconut fiber, newspaper. Anything really makes a good substrate to keep you snake on. With one important exception: NEVER KEEP YOUR SNAKE ON CEDAR OF ANY KIND. Cedar is toxic to your snake. I personally recommend newspaper as it is cheap and easy to clean.
A good heat source is vital to your snakes health. Bps need a temperature gradient (as do all snakes incidentally). You'll need to maintain a hotside of about 88-90 degrees, and a cold side of about 78-84. This allows the snake to thermoregulate (Choose which body temp is most appropriate). You can use heat lamps to achieve this temp gradient. But an Under the tank heater (UTH) is much more economical in the long run, and doesn't mess with your humidity like a heat lamp would. Flexwatt is the most widely used because it's very cheap and very easy to wire up. Just make SURE you wire it to a thermostat so you can control the temperatures. I'd recommend a ranco prewired set.
Next you'll need hides, water sources and a way to monitor it all. Ball pythons are nocturnal by nature, so they appreciate good hiding places during the day. Make sure you have one hide on the hot side and one hide on the cold side so the snake never has to choose security over temperature. Next you'll need to maintain adequate humidity. Ball pythons need humidity levels in the low to mid sixties, remember they ARE from Africa. Put a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in if it desires on the cold side of the cage. To monitor it all you need a hydrometer/thermometer. Digital kinds are the best. Walmart sells Accurites, which are good. Put the unit itself on the cold side and the probe on the hot side to accurately tell temps.
Once you've got space, hides, temps and humidity downpat, then you can worry about feeding. I've heard a lot of people say BPs are picky eaters. As long as you meet their requirements, nothing could be further from the truth. Most BPs will readily take frozen/thawed (F/T) mice or rats their whole lives. Only in rare circumstances should you have to feed live. As a young Bp, you should offer food every 5-7 days. If your snake eats, leave it alone for at least 24 hours before you handle. If you handle too soon, it could lead to regurgitiation. As your snake ages, you can switch to every 10-14 day feeding schedule.
On shedding/problems:
Periodically, your snakes colors will dull, his/her eyes will go misty and their belly will turn pinkish. This is a sign your snake is going into shed. You should immeadietly bump humidity about 10% above what you normally keep it. Leave it that way until your snake actually sheds. Keep in mind that the shed conditions will clear up a day or two before the snake actually sheds, so keep the humidity elevated until you actually see the old skin in the cage with it.
Occasionally, or when you get the snake you may notice little bugs crawling around on it, or little black pepper like dots in it's water bowl. These are mites. They are tough to get rid of, but it can be done. Go to www.pro-products.com and get provent a mite. Follow the directions to become mite free
Good luck and congratulations on your new pet. Bps are wonderful creatures.
Ball pythons are relitvely simple in their setup and care.
First of all the cage. A baby ball python will be fine in a ten gallon aquarium. As it grows you can bump up the size. An adult BP can easily and happily live out it's live in a thirty gallon aquarium.
Next you'll need a substrate. Aspen, coconut fiber, newspaper. Anything really makes a good substrate to keep you snake on. With one important exception: NEVER KEEP YOUR SNAKE ON CEDAR OF ANY KIND. Cedar is toxic to your snake. I personally recommend newspaper as it is cheap and easy to clean.
A good heat source is vital to your snakes health. Bps need a temperature gradient (as do all snakes incidentally). You'll need to maintain a hotside of about 88-90 degrees, and a cold side of about 78-84. This allows the snake to thermoregulate (Choose which body temp is most appropriate). You can use heat lamps to achieve this temp gradient. But an Under the tank heater (UTH) is much more economical in the long run, and doesn't mess with your humidity like a heat lamp would. Flexwatt is the most widely used because it's very cheap and very easy to wire up. Just make SURE you wire it to a thermostat so you can control the temperatures. I'd recommend a ranco prewired set.
Next you'll need hides, water sources and a way to monitor it all. Ball pythons are nocturnal by nature, so they appreciate good hiding places during the day. Make sure you have one hide on the hot side and one hide on the cold side so the snake never has to choose security over temperature. Next you'll need to maintain adequate humidity. Ball pythons need humidity levels in the low to mid sixties, remember they ARE from Africa. Put a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in if it desires on the cold side of the cage. To monitor it all you need a hydrometer/thermometer. Digital kinds are the best. Walmart sells Accurites, which are good. Put the unit itself on the cold side and the probe on the hot side to accurately tell temps.
Once you've got space, hides, temps and humidity downpat, then you can worry about feeding. I've heard a lot of people say BPs are picky eaters. As long as you meet their requirements, nothing could be further from the truth. Most BPs will readily take frozen/thawed (F/T) mice or rats their whole lives. Only in rare circumstances should you have to feed live. As a young Bp, you should offer food every 5-7 days. If your snake eats, leave it alone for at least 24 hours before you handle. If you handle too soon, it could lead to regurgitiation. As your snake ages, you can switch to every 10-14 day feeding schedule.
On shedding/problems:
Periodically, your snakes colors will dull, his/her eyes will go misty and their belly will turn pinkish. This is a sign your snake is going into shed. You should immeadietly bump humidity about 10% above what you normally keep it. Leave it that way until your snake actually sheds. Keep in mind that the shed conditions will clear up a day or two before the snake actually sheds, so keep the humidity elevated until you actually see the old skin in the cage with it.
Occasionally, or when you get the snake you may notice little bugs crawling around on it, or little black pepper like dots in it's water bowl. These are mites. They are tough to get rid of, but it can be done. Go to www.pro-products.com and get provent a mite. Follow the directions to become mite free
Good luck and congratulations on your new pet. Bps are wonderful creatures.
what is the best set up for angelfish fry tank?
andrewisgo
what is the best set up for angelfish fry tank and the breeding tank, and then the juveniles tank.
i dont want an essay, just basically bullet points, thanks
and can you go down from level 2 back to level 1 on yahoo answers, i just got to lvl 2, so im wondering.
Answer
Hello,
Well, to the level 2, to level 1. Yes because loosing points by asking questions is (-5) points.
And to your angel fish question i am going to give you all the information that you will ever need to know about angel fish. (: !!
---------------------------------------------------
Origin: Amazon region of South America.
Size: Up to 6" in length, the top and bottom fins spanning a greater distance in the Veil varieties.
Ideal Water Quality: Soft (0.6 to 1.2 dH), slightly acid (pH 6.5 to 6.9), successful breedings have occurred in pH 6.8.
Live Plants: Should be included in all freshwater tanks. Water quality is monitored by live plants as they will look sickly before the fish die, they aid in keeping water clear, hinder growth of algae and add Oxygen to the water.
Broadleaf aquatic plants are favorites of Angelfish for laying their eggs on. Amazon Sword Plants (Echinodorus) are in a genus that embraces more than fifty relatively hardy and adaptable species, most of which are native to the flood plains of South America. They prefer water that is neutral or slightly acid and not too hard making them perfect plants for your Angelfish tank.
Diet: Angelfish can survive on flake food alone, but they will thrive and be much more apt to breed on a greatly varied diet. Live foods such as Adult Brine Shrimp, Black Worms, Mosquito larvae, finely chopped earthworms and Guppy fry are accepted with enthusiasm and should be included regularly. If live food is not available, frozen packages of Blood Worms (Midge Fly larvae), Brine Shrimp and others are available from your favorite pet supply store and are acceptable substitutions for the live food. There are many dried foods available that will suffice too.
Raw beef heart, finely ground, mixed with unflavored gelatin and frozen immediately in small one serving size pieces is a good and economical addition to your Angelfish diet. Be absolutely sure there is no fat in the meat.
Fry Diet: Angelfish fry have been successfully raised on a diet of newly hatched Brine shrimp (napulii) for the first 4 weeks of their lives and fed two to four times daily. After that, they were gradually introduced to a mixture of finely powdered Angelfish flakes and powdered dried blood worms with an occasional (twice a week) feeding of baby brine shrimp.
When their bodies are about the size of a quarter, they may be fed Guppy fry. An easy way to provide this very nutritious food is to keep pregnant guppies in the same tank as the young Angels and the rest is up to nature. Of course feedings of other varied foods are needed to round out the diet.
The author conducted an experiment and got 6 quarter sized Angelfish from a large tank of like sized Angels and put them in a 10 gallon tank with a sponge filter and Water Sprite. They were free fed guppy fry and twice a day received any combination of Angelfish flakes, frozen bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp and dried dworms for 4 weeks. At the end of the experiment, the 6 who received a varied diet twice a day were almost the size of a half dollar while the size of the other Angelfish barely had any noticeable growth at all. You can see that the correct diet for your Angels is essential to potential and current breeder fish.
Tank Size: The minimum size tank for a breeding pair of Angelfish is 15 gallons, but should be 25 gallons or larger if you plan on leaving the fry with the parents. As you can imagine, a fully grown pair of Angels with 200-300 fry to herd around would be pretty cramped in anything smaller. Another plus to having a larger tank is that there is a better feeling of security in a larger tank and the parents aren't as apt to eat their eggs or young.
Choosing Breeder Angelfish: The best way of assuring yourself at least one young pair is to choose 6 perfect specimens from a large tankful of young angels. This method is less expensive than buying proven breeders that may be near the end of their breeding careers anyway.
When preparing to buy 6 Angelfish, take your time to study the fish and select only those with straight top and bottom fins and perfect 'feelers' without any bowing or bends in them. They should be strong, robust and active. Angelfish that are active feeders mean they will grow quickly, and have a high rate of egg production in the females.
Do not buy fish from a tank with either dead fish in it, with fungus or parasite infestations. Resist the urge to 'come to the rescue of the little ugly duckling' because it will only grow up to be a big ugly duckling and will be totally unsuitable for breeding purposes. Be extremely picky with your breeder selection and you will be rewarded with beautiful fry.
Once you have carefully selected your 6 potential breeders, they can be set up in a 20 gallon tank minimum to grow up in and to finally pair off. If they are fed well with a good selection of live foods, they will grow quickly and reach breeder size rapidly.
One sure way to acquire a true
Hello,
Well, to the level 2, to level 1. Yes because loosing points by asking questions is (-5) points.
And to your angel fish question i am going to give you all the information that you will ever need to know about angel fish. (: !!
---------------------------------------------------
Origin: Amazon region of South America.
Size: Up to 6" in length, the top and bottom fins spanning a greater distance in the Veil varieties.
Ideal Water Quality: Soft (0.6 to 1.2 dH), slightly acid (pH 6.5 to 6.9), successful breedings have occurred in pH 6.8.
Live Plants: Should be included in all freshwater tanks. Water quality is monitored by live plants as they will look sickly before the fish die, they aid in keeping water clear, hinder growth of algae and add Oxygen to the water.
Broadleaf aquatic plants are favorites of Angelfish for laying their eggs on. Amazon Sword Plants (Echinodorus) are in a genus that embraces more than fifty relatively hardy and adaptable species, most of which are native to the flood plains of South America. They prefer water that is neutral or slightly acid and not too hard making them perfect plants for your Angelfish tank.
Diet: Angelfish can survive on flake food alone, but they will thrive and be much more apt to breed on a greatly varied diet. Live foods such as Adult Brine Shrimp, Black Worms, Mosquito larvae, finely chopped earthworms and Guppy fry are accepted with enthusiasm and should be included regularly. If live food is not available, frozen packages of Blood Worms (Midge Fly larvae), Brine Shrimp and others are available from your favorite pet supply store and are acceptable substitutions for the live food. There are many dried foods available that will suffice too.
Raw beef heart, finely ground, mixed with unflavored gelatin and frozen immediately in small one serving size pieces is a good and economical addition to your Angelfish diet. Be absolutely sure there is no fat in the meat.
Fry Diet: Angelfish fry have been successfully raised on a diet of newly hatched Brine shrimp (napulii) for the first 4 weeks of their lives and fed two to four times daily. After that, they were gradually introduced to a mixture of finely powdered Angelfish flakes and powdered dried blood worms with an occasional (twice a week) feeding of baby brine shrimp.
When their bodies are about the size of a quarter, they may be fed Guppy fry. An easy way to provide this very nutritious food is to keep pregnant guppies in the same tank as the young Angels and the rest is up to nature. Of course feedings of other varied foods are needed to round out the diet.
The author conducted an experiment and got 6 quarter sized Angelfish from a large tank of like sized Angels and put them in a 10 gallon tank with a sponge filter and Water Sprite. They were free fed guppy fry and twice a day received any combination of Angelfish flakes, frozen bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp and dried dworms for 4 weeks. At the end of the experiment, the 6 who received a varied diet twice a day were almost the size of a half dollar while the size of the other Angelfish barely had any noticeable growth at all. You can see that the correct diet for your Angels is essential to potential and current breeder fish.
Tank Size: The minimum size tank for a breeding pair of Angelfish is 15 gallons, but should be 25 gallons or larger if you plan on leaving the fry with the parents. As you can imagine, a fully grown pair of Angels with 200-300 fry to herd around would be pretty cramped in anything smaller. Another plus to having a larger tank is that there is a better feeling of security in a larger tank and the parents aren't as apt to eat their eggs or young.
Choosing Breeder Angelfish: The best way of assuring yourself at least one young pair is to choose 6 perfect specimens from a large tankful of young angels. This method is less expensive than buying proven breeders that may be near the end of their breeding careers anyway.
When preparing to buy 6 Angelfish, take your time to study the fish and select only those with straight top and bottom fins and perfect 'feelers' without any bowing or bends in them. They should be strong, robust and active. Angelfish that are active feeders mean they will grow quickly, and have a high rate of egg production in the females.
Do not buy fish from a tank with either dead fish in it, with fungus or parasite infestations. Resist the urge to 'come to the rescue of the little ugly duckling' because it will only grow up to be a big ugly duckling and will be totally unsuitable for breeding purposes. Be extremely picky with your breeder selection and you will be rewarded with beautiful fry.
Once you have carefully selected your 6 potential breeders, they can be set up in a 20 gallon tank minimum to grow up in and to finally pair off. If they are fed well with a good selection of live foods, they will grow quickly and reach breeder size rapidly.
One sure way to acquire a true
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Title Post: ball python cage setup?
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Rating: 96% based on 987 ratings. 4,3 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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