Q. I am being given a small boa Constrictor and my wife have some concerns. Are they good pets or do they bite often. The snake is about 12 inches or so. If they do bite what kind of problems will it cause?
A. They can make good pets, for the right keeper. They certainly aren�t for everyone though. Red tails are very large, intelligent, medium to high upkeep snakes that can be a bit moody at times. Just because of their size and care needs, I wouldn�t recommend them to people without at least some experience handling large reptiles, and I wouldn�t dream of recommending them to beginners. I have owned five of them, so I'll type up a care sheet for you for further information on them. :)
Size: Males average between 5-8 feet, females average between 7-10, though I have had females that have been 11-12 feet in length. Keep in mind that a snake that large is very awkward to handle, and can be fifty plus pounds. If you don�t have someone to help you handle the snake as it grows; I would suggest getting a male. It simply isn�t safe to handle any constrictor over eight feet long without another person around, no matter how docile your snake may be. Accidents can and do happen.
Feeding: Feed one appropriately sized rodent weekly. The general rule of thumb is to feed a prey item that is roughly the same in diameter as the widest part of your snake�s body. They have a massive feeding instinct, so it is often best to offer food on tongs. They are capable of taking rats from the time they are babies, and some of the larger females do best with rabbits. PLEASE remember that with rats in particular, it is imperative to feed pre-killed or at least stunned rodents to your snake. I NEVER recommend offering live rats. Rats are very intelligent animals that will fight back; and are quite capable of seriously injuring or even killing your snake.
Temperament: They are generally docile, but must be handled regularly throughout its life in order to make it as friendly as it can possibly be. Babies can be nippy when young, but usually grow out of that stage with frequent handling. Most of them are quite mild mannered, and are one of the best tempered larger constrictors. Please remember that you�ll need someone to help you if you handle any snake longer than six to eight feet long. They seem prone to being moody at times, (particularly the females, for whatever reason) and while not all; some of them will randomly decide that they don�t like certain people for no good reason. For example, my eleven foot female, Bella, loves everyone and is an exceptionally friendly snake, however she absolutely loathes my best friend�s brother. She will strike at him if he so much as walks by her cage, God forbid he get near her when she is being handled. He has learned to give her a wide berth. They bites aren't all that serious (nowhere near as nasty as a Monitor bite), it is about like having a cat scratch. I've only gotten nailed once by one of my Boas (which was completely my fault), and I hardly felt it. I just cleaned it up afterwards and went back to business as usual.
Lifespan: If well cared for; they can live 20+ years in captivity.
Caging requirements: As adults; they need a minimum cage size of 10 square feet. I generally keep my females in cages that are eight feet long by two feet wide by two feet deep, and my males in cages that are six feet long by two feet wide by two feet deep. They do grow pretty quickly, so be prepared to purchase several different cages for them. They seem to do best in closed top, front opening cages that keep the humidity in. If that isn�t practical and you use a typical tank with screen lid set up, try covering most if not all of the top with a towel or something similar to keep the humidity from escaping.
Heating/Humidity: The temperature gradient in the cage should be maintained with a basking spot of 95-97 degrees with an ambient (background) temperature in the low 80�s. This can be achieved by under-tank heating pads, heat lamps, or ceramic heat emitters. They are medium-high humidity snakes that should be kept with a large water dish for drinking and soaking, and should have their cage misted every other day or so, or depending on the substrate you use, up to twice daily.
Substrate: While there are plenty of options out there (repti-bark, aspen, cypress, paper towels, etc) mine have done best when kept on Eco-Earth substrate by Zoo-med. It is compressed coconut dirt that holds humidity very well, doesn�t need to be misted often, seems resistant to mold, is relatively cheap, looks great, and my snakes have all been healthier and better hydrated since I�ve been using it.
I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions at all on the subject; please feel free to message me and I will be more than happy to assist you. :)
Good luck!
Size: Males average between 5-8 feet, females average between 7-10, though I have had females that have been 11-12 feet in length. Keep in mind that a snake that large is very awkward to handle, and can be fifty plus pounds. If you don�t have someone to help you handle the snake as it grows; I would suggest getting a male. It simply isn�t safe to handle any constrictor over eight feet long without another person around, no matter how docile your snake may be. Accidents can and do happen.
Feeding: Feed one appropriately sized rodent weekly. The general rule of thumb is to feed a prey item that is roughly the same in diameter as the widest part of your snake�s body. They have a massive feeding instinct, so it is often best to offer food on tongs. They are capable of taking rats from the time they are babies, and some of the larger females do best with rabbits. PLEASE remember that with rats in particular, it is imperative to feed pre-killed or at least stunned rodents to your snake. I NEVER recommend offering live rats. Rats are very intelligent animals that will fight back; and are quite capable of seriously injuring or even killing your snake.
Temperament: They are generally docile, but must be handled regularly throughout its life in order to make it as friendly as it can possibly be. Babies can be nippy when young, but usually grow out of that stage with frequent handling. Most of them are quite mild mannered, and are one of the best tempered larger constrictors. Please remember that you�ll need someone to help you if you handle any snake longer than six to eight feet long. They seem prone to being moody at times, (particularly the females, for whatever reason) and while not all; some of them will randomly decide that they don�t like certain people for no good reason. For example, my eleven foot female, Bella, loves everyone and is an exceptionally friendly snake, however she absolutely loathes my best friend�s brother. She will strike at him if he so much as walks by her cage, God forbid he get near her when she is being handled. He has learned to give her a wide berth. They bites aren't all that serious (nowhere near as nasty as a Monitor bite), it is about like having a cat scratch. I've only gotten nailed once by one of my Boas (which was completely my fault), and I hardly felt it. I just cleaned it up afterwards and went back to business as usual.
Lifespan: If well cared for; they can live 20+ years in captivity.
Caging requirements: As adults; they need a minimum cage size of 10 square feet. I generally keep my females in cages that are eight feet long by two feet wide by two feet deep, and my males in cages that are six feet long by two feet wide by two feet deep. They do grow pretty quickly, so be prepared to purchase several different cages for them. They seem to do best in closed top, front opening cages that keep the humidity in. If that isn�t practical and you use a typical tank with screen lid set up, try covering most if not all of the top with a towel or something similar to keep the humidity from escaping.
Heating/Humidity: The temperature gradient in the cage should be maintained with a basking spot of 95-97 degrees with an ambient (background) temperature in the low 80�s. This can be achieved by under-tank heating pads, heat lamps, or ceramic heat emitters. They are medium-high humidity snakes that should be kept with a large water dish for drinking and soaking, and should have their cage misted every other day or so, or depending on the substrate you use, up to twice daily.
Substrate: While there are plenty of options out there (repti-bark, aspen, cypress, paper towels, etc) mine have done best when kept on Eco-Earth substrate by Zoo-med. It is compressed coconut dirt that holds humidity very well, doesn�t need to be misted often, seems resistant to mold, is relatively cheap, looks great, and my snakes have all been healthier and better hydrated since I�ve been using it.
I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions at all on the subject; please feel free to message me and I will be more than happy to assist you. :)
Good luck!
can you give me a care sheet on ackie monitors?
Q. I don't want a link and I looked at pet smart for care sheets on them bu there were none so i need you to type out what they need and how much everything will cost
A. Housing & lighting/heating
------------------------------------------------------------------------
For housing an Ackie monitor I would recommend a 3x2x2 (LWH) enclosure for a single adult. A 4x2x2 (LWH) enclosure can hold a trio for each additional animal I recommend adding an extra 1 �- 2 square feet of floor space. For baby ackies a 20 gallon long enclosure with a good top-soil substrate that is at least 4 inches deep (for babies). Make sure to cover at least � of the screen top of the 20 gal. When the monitors read at least 12 inches you can move them into their permanent enclosures. I highly recommend building a custom enclosure, with LITTLE ventilation. No open screen doors, tops, sides, etc. screen releases heat and humidity very, very fast. My enclosure is a modified 40 gal. breeder aquarium I have a solid � ply wood top with 1/8 inch holes drilled in it for ventilation and the basking light mounted inside.
I use exclusively 45 watt out door flood lights, and 50 watt floods. No need for the so-called �special� UVB bulbs, they are just rip-offs
I have my basking temperature at 130-140 degrees F (keep in mind those are surface temperatures NOT air temperatures. I have seen basking spots that had hot spots of up to 200 degrees F (again these are SURFACE temperatures). The ambient temp of my enclosure is about 75-85 F degrees. It is very important to offer a hot basking spot a warm side of the enclosure that is about 90 degrees F and a cool side of about 75 degrees F. I recommend leaving the lights on 24/7, but having photoperiods really won�t hurt from my experience. Humidity- about 55% humidity.
DO NOT use those stupid hot rocks they are dangerous for your reptile. Also I would advise NOT using heatpads because these lizards do dig to the bottom of their enclosures and will burn themselves.
Substrate
------------------------------------------------------------------------
One of the most overlooked aspects of monitor keeping (along with quarantining, and proper nutrition, and of course proper husbandry), at least by beginners to the hobby of monitors. DO NOT use bark, newspaper, or sand (at least 100% sand). Use good old dirt. If you collect pesticide free soil from outside then that is great. Dirt from creek beds is especially good for monitors. Make sure you sift the dirt in order to remove any rocks, bugs, twigs, etc. Now of you can�t collect dirt from outdoors than my number 1 choice would be gardenplus top-soil from Lowes. Holds moisture and burrows wonderfully. And is about $1.19 a 40 lb. bag.
Cage furniture
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some people have these elaborate beautiful set-ups for their monitors, but guess what, 9 times out of 10 these enclosure do no good what so ever for the monitor. I have 8 inches of dirt. And a terra cota flower pot base to serve as a hide spot and basking platform. You don�t need any of those fancy hide spots that cost 20 bucks they don�t make the animal feel safe. Remember keep it simple.
Feeding and nutrition
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I feed crickets, (I am currently thinking about switching to lobster roaches), and F/T hoppers. There is no such thing as a feeding schedule for reptiles, I offer food every day (1-2 hoppers 1 time a week), sometimes my monitor will eat sometimes he won�t he does what he wants.
Some words on Varanus Acnthuras as a captive
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ackies are by far the best monitors for novice to advanced keepers. They are plain fun to keep. I can say forget pretty much everything you have read about any monitor, because it is probably a bunch of bull anyway. Also remember that size does�t matter when keeping monitors, think to your self before you buy that Black throat monitor, can I really house a 6 foot lizard? Can I provide the proper food? Or should I look at a monitor that is more realistic and economical to me?
Here are some great monitor sites-
proexotics.com
kingsnake.com
varanus.net
treemonitors.com
mampam.com
themonitorspot.com
varanuscreations.com
some books to read-
The truth about varanus exanthematicus by D. Bennet and R. Thakoordyal
The natural history and captive husbandry of monitors by D. Bennet
The biology of varanids by King & Green
Nile Monitors by Robert Foast
and anything by Walter Auffenburg
some books NOT to read-
Savanna & Grassland monitors
Monitors and Tegus
Popular monitor and tegu species
TRY TO USE CRAIGS LIST TO FIND TANKS AND STUFF ITS CHEAPER
------------------------------------------------------------------------
For housing an Ackie monitor I would recommend a 3x2x2 (LWH) enclosure for a single adult. A 4x2x2 (LWH) enclosure can hold a trio for each additional animal I recommend adding an extra 1 �- 2 square feet of floor space. For baby ackies a 20 gallon long enclosure with a good top-soil substrate that is at least 4 inches deep (for babies). Make sure to cover at least � of the screen top of the 20 gal. When the monitors read at least 12 inches you can move them into their permanent enclosures. I highly recommend building a custom enclosure, with LITTLE ventilation. No open screen doors, tops, sides, etc. screen releases heat and humidity very, very fast. My enclosure is a modified 40 gal. breeder aquarium I have a solid � ply wood top with 1/8 inch holes drilled in it for ventilation and the basking light mounted inside.
I use exclusively 45 watt out door flood lights, and 50 watt floods. No need for the so-called �special� UVB bulbs, they are just rip-offs
I have my basking temperature at 130-140 degrees F (keep in mind those are surface temperatures NOT air temperatures. I have seen basking spots that had hot spots of up to 200 degrees F (again these are SURFACE temperatures). The ambient temp of my enclosure is about 75-85 F degrees. It is very important to offer a hot basking spot a warm side of the enclosure that is about 90 degrees F and a cool side of about 75 degrees F. I recommend leaving the lights on 24/7, but having photoperiods really won�t hurt from my experience. Humidity- about 55% humidity.
DO NOT use those stupid hot rocks they are dangerous for your reptile. Also I would advise NOT using heatpads because these lizards do dig to the bottom of their enclosures and will burn themselves.
Substrate
------------------------------------------------------------------------
One of the most overlooked aspects of monitor keeping (along with quarantining, and proper nutrition, and of course proper husbandry), at least by beginners to the hobby of monitors. DO NOT use bark, newspaper, or sand (at least 100% sand). Use good old dirt. If you collect pesticide free soil from outside then that is great. Dirt from creek beds is especially good for monitors. Make sure you sift the dirt in order to remove any rocks, bugs, twigs, etc. Now of you can�t collect dirt from outdoors than my number 1 choice would be gardenplus top-soil from Lowes. Holds moisture and burrows wonderfully. And is about $1.19 a 40 lb. bag.
Cage furniture
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some people have these elaborate beautiful set-ups for their monitors, but guess what, 9 times out of 10 these enclosure do no good what so ever for the monitor. I have 8 inches of dirt. And a terra cota flower pot base to serve as a hide spot and basking platform. You don�t need any of those fancy hide spots that cost 20 bucks they don�t make the animal feel safe. Remember keep it simple.
Feeding and nutrition
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I feed crickets, (I am currently thinking about switching to lobster roaches), and F/T hoppers. There is no such thing as a feeding schedule for reptiles, I offer food every day (1-2 hoppers 1 time a week), sometimes my monitor will eat sometimes he won�t he does what he wants.
Some words on Varanus Acnthuras as a captive
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ackies are by far the best monitors for novice to advanced keepers. They are plain fun to keep. I can say forget pretty much everything you have read about any monitor, because it is probably a bunch of bull anyway. Also remember that size does�t matter when keeping monitors, think to your self before you buy that Black throat monitor, can I really house a 6 foot lizard? Can I provide the proper food? Or should I look at a monitor that is more realistic and economical to me?
Here are some great monitor sites-
proexotics.com
kingsnake.com
varanus.net
treemonitors.com
mampam.com
themonitorspot.com
varanuscreations.com
some books to read-
The truth about varanus exanthematicus by D. Bennet and R. Thakoordyal
The natural history and captive husbandry of monitors by D. Bennet
The biology of varanids by King & Green
Nile Monitors by Robert Foast
and anything by Walter Auffenburg
some books NOT to read-
Savanna & Grassland monitors
Monitors and Tegus
Popular monitor and tegu species
TRY TO USE CRAIGS LIST TO FIND TANKS AND STUFF ITS CHEAPER
Advice on a Graphics card?
Q. OK, so get ready for a mouthful: i have a windows 7 Toshiba P505 laptop with core i7 processor. i baby this computer as its 18.4 inch screen and fast processor make it a great desktop replacement computer. But it has a wimpy Intel graphics media accelerator integrated graphics unit. and because of this it's impossible to upgrade it without serious tinkering that would void my warranty. So i found a external graphics unit that allows you to put any graphics card with no external power requirement into it and plug it in to my computers expressport and wala. instant great graphics. But im having a hard time finding a good graphics card that doesn't require a external power source. the best one i could find so far is the ATI 5670. Can anyone direct me to a good card? THZ
PS: the external graphics unit is the Vidock2
PS: the external graphics unit is the Vidock2
A. Firstly, I doubt you would void your warranty by just removing the cover, which is all you need to do to install a graphics card.
Anyway, the HD5670 is currently the best graphics card out there without an external power requirement but it's still seriously underpowered compared to your i7 processor.
I'd recommend you to check with your dealer on the warranty issue as there is absolutely NO tinkering involved in installing a graphics card. It's easy as plugging in a monitor or a printer or an external graphics unit for that matter, only inside the case. And not to mention the inherent lag of an external graphics unit since there is no direct communication between the motherboard and the graphics card.
Anyway, the HD5670 is currently the best graphics card out there without an external power requirement but it's still seriously underpowered compared to your i7 processor.
I'd recommend you to check with your dealer on the warranty issue as there is absolutely NO tinkering involved in installing a graphics card. It's easy as plugging in a monitor or a printer or an external graphics unit for that matter, only inside the case. And not to mention the inherent lag of an external graphics unit since there is no direct communication between the motherboard and the graphics card.
16 , first baby , scared , 3weeks left labour WTF ?
Q. just want to noe labour stories fully detailed and no holding back. from start till when the baby was born please i dont want to go there lost.
A. so the morning i went into labor was just a typical morning.. i was making a 5 a/m pee run to the potty.when i had layed back down.. i felt really crampy- almost period crampy or something. wasn't excruiating pain or anything-.... just annoying like.eventually i noticed that the pain would start up and stop again by it's self.. and i noticed it was kinda consistant (like ever 15 minutes or so). And i thought to my self.. HOLY CRAP THIS MUST BE A FRICKIN CONTRATCION!...... it got to the point where it evenutally became really uncomfortable so i called up the hospital and told the nurse told me to come on in another hour.. i'm
Didn't bring a bag or nothing because i thought that i'd be sent back home for over exaggerating my pain or something... we got there about 9:30 a/m-...and was put on the monitor thing where they listen to the baby's heartbeat, and watch ur contractions on the screen to see where i was. When i went in I was dialated at a 3. and 80% effaced.
A little while later, The contractions were getting SO BAD that i started crying--- and the uncomfroatble bed i was laying on was making my back hurt- so it wasn't helping much either. --- Nurse came in and checked me around 1 and said i was dialated to 4 and still 80% effaced
a little while later, and more crying- plus a lot of walkin up and down the hallways I started to loose my moucous plug But was dialated to a 5..so got moved to labor room, Took a Jacuzzi (which i recommend..... it helps with the pain so much!)Then... I really needed medicine by then... I was desperate... So.. the nurse came in to give me an I.V..... She picked and poked, but couldn't locate a vein...... So a second nurse came in.... again......she picked and poked but couldn't locate a vein....... so they had to call EMS in ... She Picked, and Poked and got it in... *Getting poked like that, (Especially with an I.V) WHILE your in the middle of a contraction..... doesn't feel to hott*... So The I.V. was in... I thought the drip bag that was going into me was medicine.. NOT....it was the sugar water stuff so i dint get dehydreated... I found out i had to wait for the doc to come in and check me before i could get meds...so... FINALLY he came in..Checked me.. and I was dialated to a 6.... Said he'd ring up anestesialogist to get me an epidural. . . and they'd be up as soon as they could.... So I was just sitting there throuh contractions in AGONY WAITING!..Anyway-... Then i felt the urge that I needed to PUSH.... and i told the nurse.. i'm like.. NURSE I GOTA PUSH.. and she's like.. you can't your only at a 6! and i said.. no honestly.. and then it's like my body just took over and pushed.. i didn't do nothing (kinda like when u have to puke.. your body just does it*... anyway.. so she checked me and was like HOLY CRAP you just dialated from a 6 to a 9 in like 5 minutes! and she's like okay go head and push.. so i started.. and they paged Dr. Jentoft as soon as he got there.. i was at a full blown 10. so Pretty much-.... i dialated so fastly, that they couldn't give me any medicine..So I pushed for about 15 minutes and had him.I had to get a episomisty or something done *where they cut you*...7 lbs, 14.2 oz'.20 inches long.
below is the link for the MGH baby page to view Matthew's little picture!!
http://www2.mgh.org/MISC/babydev.nsf/ec343236996f5e1685256bff0065d4b6/02a943474af9bab68525735d00520d83?OpenDocument
Didn't bring a bag or nothing because i thought that i'd be sent back home for over exaggerating my pain or something... we got there about 9:30 a/m-...and was put on the monitor thing where they listen to the baby's heartbeat, and watch ur contractions on the screen to see where i was. When i went in I was dialated at a 3. and 80% effaced.
A little while later, The contractions were getting SO BAD that i started crying--- and the uncomfroatble bed i was laying on was making my back hurt- so it wasn't helping much either. --- Nurse came in and checked me around 1 and said i was dialated to 4 and still 80% effaced
a little while later, and more crying- plus a lot of walkin up and down the hallways I started to loose my moucous plug But was dialated to a 5..so got moved to labor room, Took a Jacuzzi (which i recommend..... it helps with the pain so much!)Then... I really needed medicine by then... I was desperate... So.. the nurse came in to give me an I.V..... She picked and poked, but couldn't locate a vein...... So a second nurse came in.... again......she picked and poked but couldn't locate a vein....... so they had to call EMS in ... She Picked, and Poked and got it in... *Getting poked like that, (Especially with an I.V) WHILE your in the middle of a contraction..... doesn't feel to hott*... So The I.V. was in... I thought the drip bag that was going into me was medicine.. NOT....it was the sugar water stuff so i dint get dehydreated... I found out i had to wait for the doc to come in and check me before i could get meds...so... FINALLY he came in..Checked me.. and I was dialated to a 6.... Said he'd ring up anestesialogist to get me an epidural. . . and they'd be up as soon as they could.... So I was just sitting there throuh contractions in AGONY WAITING!..Anyway-... Then i felt the urge that I needed to PUSH.... and i told the nurse.. i'm like.. NURSE I GOTA PUSH.. and she's like.. you can't your only at a 6! and i said.. no honestly.. and then it's like my body just took over and pushed.. i didn't do nothing (kinda like when u have to puke.. your body just does it*... anyway.. so she checked me and was like HOLY CRAP you just dialated from a 6 to a 9 in like 5 minutes! and she's like okay go head and push.. so i started.. and they paged Dr. Jentoft as soon as he got there.. i was at a full blown 10. so Pretty much-.... i dialated so fastly, that they couldn't give me any medicine..So I pushed for about 15 minutes and had him.I had to get a episomisty or something done *where they cut you*...7 lbs, 14.2 oz'.20 inches long.
below is the link for the MGH baby page to view Matthew's little picture!!
http://www2.mgh.org/MISC/babydev.nsf/ec343236996f5e1685256bff0065d4b6/02a943474af9bab68525735d00520d83?OpenDocument
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Title Post: Has anyone ever owned a Boa Constrictor?
Rating: 96% based on 987 ratings. 4,3 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
Rating: 96% based on 987 ratings. 4,3 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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