Q. I was wondering, because it might be a good treat for him and a good source of vitamin C. The apple juice I buy is pure apple juice from concentrate.
A. Apple juice itself, is not a good idea. But you can give your guinea pig a SMALL piece of apple about once every two weeks. They do like fruit, and it is a treat for guinea pigs. But fruit is very high in sugars, and that is fattening to your pigger.
However, if you monitor their diet very carefully, you can sneak in a treat every so often.
If you have any more questions about guinea pigs, I belong to this forum called, "GUINEA PIG ADDICTION FORUM," and we discuss things like these. We also talk about other pets, besides guinea pigs. We offer each other support, advice, and we learn proper care of guinea pigs. We also have fun too! You should come, and check it out. We are rescue friendly, but we do not believe in breeding. Why breed, when so many animals are in shelters, looking for good homes. If you agree with this, and wanna come check us out, we are, "GUINEA PIG ADDICTION FORUM, " and we are at http://www.createforum.com/addiction/index.php?mforum=addiction Tell them Baby's Mom invited you.
However, if you monitor their diet very carefully, you can sneak in a treat every so often.
If you have any more questions about guinea pigs, I belong to this forum called, "GUINEA PIG ADDICTION FORUM," and we discuss things like these. We also talk about other pets, besides guinea pigs. We offer each other support, advice, and we learn proper care of guinea pigs. We also have fun too! You should come, and check it out. We are rescue friendly, but we do not believe in breeding. Why breed, when so many animals are in shelters, looking for good homes. If you agree with this, and wanna come check us out, we are, "GUINEA PIG ADDICTION FORUM, " and we are at http://www.createforum.com/addiction/index.php?mforum=addiction Tell them Baby's Mom invited you.
What sugar levels would be considered for gestational diabetes?
Q. My doctor is convinced that I'm still 35 weeks pregnant, however, my son is measuring a bit larger than what he's supposed to. He's 7lbs. 7oz. at this point, and they say that he's measuring as if I'm 38 weeks. Well, my doctor says that I could be struggling with gestational diabetes. I already took the one hour and the three hour glucose tests and the one hour came back a little high, but the three hour was fine. She seems to think that maybe I slipped through the cracks, so for the last couple of days, I've been monitoring my sugar with a meter. She didn't tell me what numbers were considered high or low, or diabetic or not, does anyone out there know? I've been testing four times a day, once in the morning after fasting and two hours after each meal. In the morning, I've been running in the high 80's to mid 90's and bfast has been under 120 usually, however my lunch and dinner have been anywhere from 115-139, is this bad, and does it mean that I indeed have gestational diabetes?
A. The targets from my endocrinologist for gestational diabetics are:
- 95 or below fasting (before breakfast)
- 130 or lower 1 hour after eating, 120 or lower 2 hours after eating.
So it sounds like you are mostly in range, only slightly over. I would say you could probably benefit from a few diet changes, but you don't seem to be running high blood sugars all day. Good for you for measuring your blood sugars.
Here are some things you can do to help:
- avoid "white" carbs - white bread, white potatoes, white pasta, white sugar, white tortillas. No sodas or juice of course.
- never have a carb by itself - always eat it with protein, or protein & fat. That means if you have an apple, have some turkey or cheese with it. This will slow down how quickly the sugar in the carb is converted to glucose and will keep your blood sugar from spiking.
- Carbs are key, but they're not totally off-limits. Try to limit your meals to 30-45 carbohydrates. Pick your worst meal (lunch?) and make it 30 carbs, a little more where you're not having trouble (breakfast?). But more importantly, make those carbs low-glycemic. That means whole wheat, multi-grain, or brown rice, corn tortillas over flour. There's a great high protein pasta that doesn't budge my blood sugars called Barilla Plus pasta - it tastes just like regular but it's awesome for diabetics.
- if this doesn't work, make your meals mostly protein and vegetables, with minimal carbs. Corn and potatoes are carbs, not veggies, for this purpose.
Good luck! Also keep in mind there is such a thing as genes. You maybe be having a big baby just because you're having a big baby, ya know? You're so close to being within targets I have a hard time believing that would make you measure 3 weeks ahead. Also, ultrasounds aren't always accurate. So try not to stress out - stress raises blood sugars.
- 95 or below fasting (before breakfast)
- 130 or lower 1 hour after eating, 120 or lower 2 hours after eating.
So it sounds like you are mostly in range, only slightly over. I would say you could probably benefit from a few diet changes, but you don't seem to be running high blood sugars all day. Good for you for measuring your blood sugars.
Here are some things you can do to help:
- avoid "white" carbs - white bread, white potatoes, white pasta, white sugar, white tortillas. No sodas or juice of course.
- never have a carb by itself - always eat it with protein, or protein & fat. That means if you have an apple, have some turkey or cheese with it. This will slow down how quickly the sugar in the carb is converted to glucose and will keep your blood sugar from spiking.
- Carbs are key, but they're not totally off-limits. Try to limit your meals to 30-45 carbohydrates. Pick your worst meal (lunch?) and make it 30 carbs, a little more where you're not having trouble (breakfast?). But more importantly, make those carbs low-glycemic. That means whole wheat, multi-grain, or brown rice, corn tortillas over flour. There's a great high protein pasta that doesn't budge my blood sugars called Barilla Plus pasta - it tastes just like regular but it's awesome for diabetics.
- if this doesn't work, make your meals mostly protein and vegetables, with minimal carbs. Corn and potatoes are carbs, not veggies, for this purpose.
Good luck! Also keep in mind there is such a thing as genes. You maybe be having a big baby just because you're having a big baby, ya know? You're so close to being within targets I have a hard time believing that would make you measure 3 weeks ahead. Also, ultrasounds aren't always accurate. So try not to stress out - stress raises blood sugars.
How do I get my parakeet to stop laying eggs?
Q. How do I get my parakeet to stop laying eggs? She's laid 9 since January! There's no boy bird around and we don't plan on getting one.
A. Thank goodness you have the sense to stop this behaviour, rather than encourage it and put a mate in! So many people lack this sort of sense, I've noticed. If she lays over and over and over and over, she'll become a chronic layer, which is very dangerous and may very well take her life one day. Chronic layers tend to lay huge clutches (3-5 eggs is a normal clutch) on a consistent basis.
Anyway, there are some mating factors you need to consider. She's laying because she thinks it's spring/summer, and that's a great mating season. To make it seem like winter/fall, when she wouldn't want to mate:
1) Cover her cage or give her at least 12 hours of darkness and silence a day. If she keeps laying, cover her longer. Sometimes it takes going to the extreme of covering her for 20 to 22 hours a day, but daylight is a big factor. Long daylight hours symbolize warm weather, so long night time hours symbolize poor, cold weather.
2) Monitor her food intake. All birds are different, but you should be able to get a gist of how much she needs to eat per day and feed her accordingly. I'm not sure about budgies, but my lovebirds (a bit bigger than budgies) eat about 1.5 spoons of food per day, so that's all I free-feed them. I'm not starving them because I know that's all they'll eat, and I'll refill their food the very next day.
3) Don't pet her anywhere stimulating. That would be everywhere but the head. If something is stimulating her, especially on the back, wings, tail, under the wings, and belly, she feels as if a mate is initiating the mating process.
4) Keep her occupied and adapt her to change. Change her cage around at least once a week, so that every single perch and every single toy is replaced by another and moved in a different position. She'll keep busy with all the new things, she'll feel mentally challenged by it, and she'll know that babies won't survive in an environment that's constantly changing. You may even want to move her entire cage to another part of the room, or a separate room.
5) Don't allow her nests. If she has any nooks and crannies she burrows into to lay in, remove them. Don't give her any nesting materials. If she shreds the paper on the bottom of her cage and piles it, put something between her and the paper. A grate is very convenient in these times. It's another thing to clean, but I had a lovebird who was determined to nest. I put the grate in for maybe 3 to 5 weeks and she lost interest in shredding nesting material.
Do NOT remove her eggs. They're infertile anyway, so there's no worry of them hatching. Leave them with her for the duration of incubation (21 to 30 days since the last egg was laid) and when she realizes for herself that they aren't hatching, she'll leave them of her own accord. By constantly removing her eggs, you're sending her the message that predators are taking them. Her instincts tell her that in order to further the species effectively, she has to lay more and more to replace those eggs, so she'll do so!
Make sure she's on a good, balanced diet. I suggest pellets, seed, and fresh foods. Pellets are a good alternative if you can't feed a large variety of fresh foods during the day. Harrison's, Roudybush, and Zupreem (without natural colours) are great brands. A nice pelleted diet for a budgie would be 10% seeds, 10% fresh fruits, vegetables, and grains but NO avocado, chocolate, tomato leaves, mushrooms, onions, apple seeds, other fruit pits and seeds, salty, sugary, greasy, caffeinated, or carbonated items, and 80% pellet. Fresh foods that would be great for her right now would be foods that are high in calcium (egg shells require a LOT of calcium that takes away from the hen). Dark, leafy greens are very popular, such as kale, spinach, romaine lettuce, bok choy, broccoli, etc. You should also provide some high quality mineral blocks that she can pick at in case she feels she needs in. Manu blocks are wonderful; they're very natural and highly nutritious, and many people will also suggest cuttlefish bone. Be careful of the solid backing, as birds may be able to choke on it.
Good luck.
Anyway, there are some mating factors you need to consider. She's laying because she thinks it's spring/summer, and that's a great mating season. To make it seem like winter/fall, when she wouldn't want to mate:
1) Cover her cage or give her at least 12 hours of darkness and silence a day. If she keeps laying, cover her longer. Sometimes it takes going to the extreme of covering her for 20 to 22 hours a day, but daylight is a big factor. Long daylight hours symbolize warm weather, so long night time hours symbolize poor, cold weather.
2) Monitor her food intake. All birds are different, but you should be able to get a gist of how much she needs to eat per day and feed her accordingly. I'm not sure about budgies, but my lovebirds (a bit bigger than budgies) eat about 1.5 spoons of food per day, so that's all I free-feed them. I'm not starving them because I know that's all they'll eat, and I'll refill their food the very next day.
3) Don't pet her anywhere stimulating. That would be everywhere but the head. If something is stimulating her, especially on the back, wings, tail, under the wings, and belly, she feels as if a mate is initiating the mating process.
4) Keep her occupied and adapt her to change. Change her cage around at least once a week, so that every single perch and every single toy is replaced by another and moved in a different position. She'll keep busy with all the new things, she'll feel mentally challenged by it, and she'll know that babies won't survive in an environment that's constantly changing. You may even want to move her entire cage to another part of the room, or a separate room.
5) Don't allow her nests. If she has any nooks and crannies she burrows into to lay in, remove them. Don't give her any nesting materials. If she shreds the paper on the bottom of her cage and piles it, put something between her and the paper. A grate is very convenient in these times. It's another thing to clean, but I had a lovebird who was determined to nest. I put the grate in for maybe 3 to 5 weeks and she lost interest in shredding nesting material.
Do NOT remove her eggs. They're infertile anyway, so there's no worry of them hatching. Leave them with her for the duration of incubation (21 to 30 days since the last egg was laid) and when she realizes for herself that they aren't hatching, she'll leave them of her own accord. By constantly removing her eggs, you're sending her the message that predators are taking them. Her instincts tell her that in order to further the species effectively, she has to lay more and more to replace those eggs, so she'll do so!
Make sure she's on a good, balanced diet. I suggest pellets, seed, and fresh foods. Pellets are a good alternative if you can't feed a large variety of fresh foods during the day. Harrison's, Roudybush, and Zupreem (without natural colours) are great brands. A nice pelleted diet for a budgie would be 10% seeds, 10% fresh fruits, vegetables, and grains but NO avocado, chocolate, tomato leaves, mushrooms, onions, apple seeds, other fruit pits and seeds, salty, sugary, greasy, caffeinated, or carbonated items, and 80% pellet. Fresh foods that would be great for her right now would be foods that are high in calcium (egg shells require a LOT of calcium that takes away from the hen). Dark, leafy greens are very popular, such as kale, spinach, romaine lettuce, bok choy, broccoli, etc. You should also provide some high quality mineral blocks that she can pick at in case she feels she needs in. Manu blocks are wonderful; they're very natural and highly nutritious, and many people will also suggest cuttlefish bone. Be careful of the solid backing, as birds may be able to choke on it.
Good luck.
How do you feel about apple inc stocks today?
Q. How do you feel about apple inc stocks today
A. Consider the mechanics of their business and how long it takes to go from Idea to Product..( Cutting Edge Creative Products)...And Jobs was probably working on these products till the day he retired,..I bet he was working from home.
I think it' insulting to write them off so quickly..
There was Apple Television with Integrated Computer and Apple Software,..In the works(something on that line)...
Which once more simplifies the experience so everyone is included in the experience..Grand Maw can Communicate with the gran babies at college, etc, In another State...Video Phone Calls on a Television size (monitor)screen...Or E-mail
I think it' insulting to write them off so quickly..
There was Apple Television with Integrated Computer and Apple Software,..In the works(something on that line)...
Which once more simplifies the experience so everyone is included in the experience..Grand Maw can Communicate with the gran babies at college, etc, In another State...Video Phone Calls on a Television size (monitor)screen...Or E-mail
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Title Post: Can you feed a guinea pig apple juice?
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Rating: 96% based on 987 ratings. 4,3 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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