Q. How do they work?
What are the pros and cons?
I am thinking about buying one that you can have two monitors and see two rooms at once and was wondering how many people prefer it.
What are the pros and cons?
I am thinking about buying one that you can have two monitors and see two rooms at once and was wondering how many people prefer it.
A. Congrats on baby #2!
I couldn't live with out my video monitor!! I have the Summer Infant Day & Night Handheld Color Video Monitor. The picture is so clear both at night and during the day. I love being able to check on my baby with out waking her. I don't even have to get out of bed unless she really needs me! I think if I only had the audio, I would have been getting up a lot more often to investigate every sound, especially during the first few months. The handheld part has a button on top so you can turn off the video screen if the light bothers you at night. Then if you hear something you feel you need to check on, simply click the button and the video comes back on. I read the reviews for this product. Many people say they could not get a signal. I never had a problem. I also read that they can interfere with wi-fi. My husband is a web developer... he never would have allowed wi-fi interference!
I highly recommend this monitor to all my friends. The only con I can think of is that I have had to change the channel due to static. Seriously, it's a flick of a button and I've had to do it maybe 3 times in 7 months. No biggie! I know you can get an extra camera for this monitor, but I don't need one yet. Here is what one person commented: "We bought a second camera to go with the monitor we already had. I love being able to switch back and forth between my two kids' rooms. Only issue is if the monitor is too close to one camera, you can have interference when trying to check on the other one."
http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2265802
Hope this helps.
I couldn't live with out my video monitor!! I have the Summer Infant Day & Night Handheld Color Video Monitor. The picture is so clear both at night and during the day. I love being able to check on my baby with out waking her. I don't even have to get out of bed unless she really needs me! I think if I only had the audio, I would have been getting up a lot more often to investigate every sound, especially during the first few months. The handheld part has a button on top so you can turn off the video screen if the light bothers you at night. Then if you hear something you feel you need to check on, simply click the button and the video comes back on. I read the reviews for this product. Many people say they could not get a signal. I never had a problem. I also read that they can interfere with wi-fi. My husband is a web developer... he never would have allowed wi-fi interference!
I highly recommend this monitor to all my friends. The only con I can think of is that I have had to change the channel due to static. Seriously, it's a flick of a button and I've had to do it maybe 3 times in 7 months. No biggie! I know you can get an extra camera for this monitor, but I don't need one yet. Here is what one person commented: "We bought a second camera to go with the monitor we already had. I love being able to switch back and forth between my two kids' rooms. Only issue is if the monitor is too close to one camera, you can have interference when trying to check on the other one."
http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2265802
Hope this helps.
Is it possible to be 6w6d and be able to see a yolk sac but no baby?
Q. Hi I had an ultrasound last thus hay, I should be 6 weeks and 6 days. They found the yolk sac but no baby. The doctor told me to come back in a week. It was to early to tell. I�m completely freaking out. Is it possible to be 6w6d and be able to see a yolk sac but no baby?
A. Yes, it's normal. Don't freak out. Sometimes it takes a while to see the baby inside of the sac. As long as there is a sac, then there is a baby.
It's normal.
I had that happen to me also.
Right now your baby is so tiny all you need to see is the sac.
As long as your doctor can see the heart beat on the screen of the monitor, everything is ok.
A baby has a heartbeat at 6 weeks - 7 weeks.
It's normal.
I had that happen to me also.
Right now your baby is so tiny all you need to see is the sac.
As long as your doctor can see the heart beat on the screen of the monitor, everything is ok.
A baby has a heartbeat at 6 weeks - 7 weeks.
How do I give my boyfriend full custody of my child?
Q. I will be attending school, and if he has full custody of her she will be covered by his insurance. She will be living with him in another state, while I'm in a different state for school. How should I go about doing this considering that we are in two different places?
We are already broken up but we are good friends
We are already broken up but we are good friends
A. Use a certified mediator. He/she will create the motion and final order for the court. He takes this to the Clerk of the Court who certifies it and sets a court date. The two of you go to court, the judge swears you in, and ask you if you agree to the mediated order. He signs it and you're done. Cost about $500 for the mediator, plus court filing fees.
http://ch08a-mediation_4_family_court_cases.dads-house.org/
I would suggest there be fire wire Web cams in the child's room that run 24/7. Four of them can be connected together that you can access at any time to see the baby.
http://unibrain.com/Products/VisionImg/Fire_i_DC.htm
There a lot you can be doing to remain involved using technology, including adding a flat screen monitor inside the crib that you can appear on, just think outside the box.
I would like to compliment both of you on this decision, though I would rather have seen the child having both of you in the home. I work with fathers who are frequently denied access to their children. I assume you're under age 24, so this shows a maturity not generally found in young folks your age.
If there's any additional help I can be, just email me.
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http://ch08a-mediation_4_family_court_cases.dads-house.org/
I would suggest there be fire wire Web cams in the child's room that run 24/7. Four of them can be connected together that you can access at any time to see the baby.
http://unibrain.com/Products/VisionImg/Fire_i_DC.htm
There a lot you can be doing to remain involved using technology, including adding a flat screen monitor inside the crib that you can appear on, just think outside the box.
I would like to compliment both of you on this decision, though I would rather have seen the child having both of you in the home. I work with fathers who are frequently denied access to their children. I assume you're under age 24, so this shows a maturity not generally found in young folks your age.
If there's any additional help I can be, just email me.
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Has anyone ever owned a Boa Constrictor?
Q. I am being given a small boa Constrictor and my wife have some concerns. Are they good pets or do they bite often. The snake is about 12 inches or so. If they do bite what kind of problems will it cause?
A. They can make good pets, for the right keeper. They certainly aren�t for everyone though. Red tails are very large, intelligent, medium to high upkeep snakes that can be a bit moody at times. Just because of their size and care needs, I wouldn�t recommend them to people without at least some experience handling large reptiles, and I wouldn�t dream of recommending them to beginners. I have owned five of them, so I'll type up a care sheet for you for further information on them. :)
Size: Males average between 5-8 feet, females average between 7-10, though I have had females that have been 11-12 feet in length. Keep in mind that a snake that large is very awkward to handle, and can be fifty plus pounds. If you don�t have someone to help you handle the snake as it grows; I would suggest getting a male. It simply isn�t safe to handle any constrictor over eight feet long without another person around, no matter how docile your snake may be. Accidents can and do happen.
Feeding: Feed one appropriately sized rodent weekly. The general rule of thumb is to feed a prey item that is roughly the same in diameter as the widest part of your snake�s body. They have a massive feeding instinct, so it is often best to offer food on tongs. They are capable of taking rats from the time they are babies, and some of the larger females do best with rabbits. PLEASE remember that with rats in particular, it is imperative to feed pre-killed or at least stunned rodents to your snake. I NEVER recommend offering live rats. Rats are very intelligent animals that will fight back; and are quite capable of seriously injuring or even killing your snake.
Temperament: They are generally docile, but must be handled regularly throughout its life in order to make it as friendly as it can possibly be. Babies can be nippy when young, but usually grow out of that stage with frequent handling. Most of them are quite mild mannered, and are one of the best tempered larger constrictors. Please remember that you�ll need someone to help you if you handle any snake longer than six to eight feet long. They seem prone to being moody at times, (particularly the females, for whatever reason) and while not all; some of them will randomly decide that they don�t like certain people for no good reason. For example, my eleven foot female, Bella, loves everyone and is an exceptionally friendly snake, however she absolutely loathes my best friend�s brother. She will strike at him if he so much as walks by her cage, God forbid he get near her when she is being handled. He has learned to give her a wide berth. They bites aren't all that serious (nowhere near as nasty as a Monitor bite), it is about like having a cat scratch. I've only gotten nailed once by one of my Boas (which was completely my fault), and I hardly felt it. I just cleaned it up afterwards and went back to business as usual.
Lifespan: If well cared for; they can live 20+ years in captivity.
Caging requirements: As adults; they need a minimum cage size of 10 square feet. I generally keep my females in cages that are eight feet long by two feet wide by two feet deep, and my males in cages that are six feet long by two feet wide by two feet deep. They do grow pretty quickly, so be prepared to purchase several different cages for them. They seem to do best in closed top, front opening cages that keep the humidity in. If that isn�t practical and you use a typical tank with screen lid set up, try covering most if not all of the top with a towel or something similar to keep the humidity from escaping.
Heating/Humidity: The temperature gradient in the cage should be maintained with a basking spot of 95-97 degrees with an ambient (background) temperature in the low 80�s. This can be achieved by under-tank heating pads, heat lamps, or ceramic heat emitters. They are medium-high humidity snakes that should be kept with a large water dish for drinking and soaking, and should have their cage misted every other day or so, or depending on the substrate you use, up to twice daily.
Substrate: While there are plenty of options out there (repti-bark, aspen, cypress, paper towels, etc) mine have done best when kept on Eco-Earth substrate by Zoo-med. It is compressed coconut dirt that holds humidity very well, doesn�t need to be misted often, seems resistant to mold, is relatively cheap, looks great, and my snakes have all been healthier and better hydrated since I�ve been using it.
I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions at all on the subject; please feel free to message me and I will be more than happy to assist you. :)
Good luck!
Size: Males average between 5-8 feet, females average between 7-10, though I have had females that have been 11-12 feet in length. Keep in mind that a snake that large is very awkward to handle, and can be fifty plus pounds. If you don�t have someone to help you handle the snake as it grows; I would suggest getting a male. It simply isn�t safe to handle any constrictor over eight feet long without another person around, no matter how docile your snake may be. Accidents can and do happen.
Feeding: Feed one appropriately sized rodent weekly. The general rule of thumb is to feed a prey item that is roughly the same in diameter as the widest part of your snake�s body. They have a massive feeding instinct, so it is often best to offer food on tongs. They are capable of taking rats from the time they are babies, and some of the larger females do best with rabbits. PLEASE remember that with rats in particular, it is imperative to feed pre-killed or at least stunned rodents to your snake. I NEVER recommend offering live rats. Rats are very intelligent animals that will fight back; and are quite capable of seriously injuring or even killing your snake.
Temperament: They are generally docile, but must be handled regularly throughout its life in order to make it as friendly as it can possibly be. Babies can be nippy when young, but usually grow out of that stage with frequent handling. Most of them are quite mild mannered, and are one of the best tempered larger constrictors. Please remember that you�ll need someone to help you if you handle any snake longer than six to eight feet long. They seem prone to being moody at times, (particularly the females, for whatever reason) and while not all; some of them will randomly decide that they don�t like certain people for no good reason. For example, my eleven foot female, Bella, loves everyone and is an exceptionally friendly snake, however she absolutely loathes my best friend�s brother. She will strike at him if he so much as walks by her cage, God forbid he get near her when she is being handled. He has learned to give her a wide berth. They bites aren't all that serious (nowhere near as nasty as a Monitor bite), it is about like having a cat scratch. I've only gotten nailed once by one of my Boas (which was completely my fault), and I hardly felt it. I just cleaned it up afterwards and went back to business as usual.
Lifespan: If well cared for; they can live 20+ years in captivity.
Caging requirements: As adults; they need a minimum cage size of 10 square feet. I generally keep my females in cages that are eight feet long by two feet wide by two feet deep, and my males in cages that are six feet long by two feet wide by two feet deep. They do grow pretty quickly, so be prepared to purchase several different cages for them. They seem to do best in closed top, front opening cages that keep the humidity in. If that isn�t practical and you use a typical tank with screen lid set up, try covering most if not all of the top with a towel or something similar to keep the humidity from escaping.
Heating/Humidity: The temperature gradient in the cage should be maintained with a basking spot of 95-97 degrees with an ambient (background) temperature in the low 80�s. This can be achieved by under-tank heating pads, heat lamps, or ceramic heat emitters. They are medium-high humidity snakes that should be kept with a large water dish for drinking and soaking, and should have their cage misted every other day or so, or depending on the substrate you use, up to twice daily.
Substrate: While there are plenty of options out there (repti-bark, aspen, cypress, paper towels, etc) mine have done best when kept on Eco-Earth substrate by Zoo-med. It is compressed coconut dirt that holds humidity very well, doesn�t need to be misted often, seems resistant to mold, is relatively cheap, looks great, and my snakes have all been healthier and better hydrated since I�ve been using it.
I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions at all on the subject; please feel free to message me and I will be more than happy to assist you. :)
Good luck!
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Title Post: Has anyone used a video baby monitor?
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Rating: 96% based on 987 ratings. 4,3 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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